The New York Times found a lot to love in 36 hours.
Journalist Ingrid K. Williams explores the City of Brotherly Love’s quintessential landmarks and its lesser-known charms in a new intimate 36-hour itinerary, published on Thursday.
Williams and crew made sure to hit the Philly essentials, like the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall and the Rocky Statue, and didn’t leave without grabbing an OG Philly cheesesteak. But they also stepped off the beaten path, touring the neo-Gothic (and quite possibly haunted) Eastern State Penitentiary, sipping craft beer at bars and breweries like Human Robot, and sampling the city’s rising pizza scene.
Key Stops:
- Barnes Foundation: A museum of extraordinary impressionist, post-impressionist and modern art masterpieces, including the largest collection of Renoirs and more Cézannes than all of France (yes, all of France).
- Suraya: A spacious Fishtown restaurant celebrating the flavors of the Levant, offering plates piled high with steaming kabobs, warm flatbread and roasted hummus indoors — all amidst glowing pendant lamps and a verdant outdoor courtyard.
- Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens: A winding, tessellated labyrinth designed by local artist Isaiah Zagar and built from vibrant ceramics, colored glass, mirror tiles and found art.
- Bok Building: A 348,000-square-foot building home to over 200 artists, chefs and businesses, including Bok Bar, one of the city’s top rooftop bars.
Food in the hip Fishtown neighborhood stood out in a big way, with flavor twists like grapefruit margaritas and “okonomiyaki-style” latkes at Middle Child Clubhouse, and impeccably charred pies at Pizzeria Beddia (which may or may not also contain a secret hoagie omakase, shhh).
South Philly food and shopping also didn’t disappoint, with treasures like sweet-and-savory breakfast sandwiches at Mighty Bread Company; bowls of rice, beans and Mexican consomé that’ll warm you to the core at South Philly Barbacoa; artist monographs and well-loved novels at Brickbat Books; and elixirs and ethereal knitwear at Moon + Arrow.
Williams soaked in Philly’s great outdoors at every corner of the city, including the Schuylkill River Trail’s spectacular Philly skyline views and scenic paths along (and above) the water; the lively urban oasis and artists’ haven at the Delaware River Trail; and the babbling brooks and miles of lush, forested trails at Wissahickon Valley Park.
And Williams’ Philly excursion wouldn’t have been complete without shoutouts to the cobblestoned charm of Old City (lookin’ at you, Elfreth’s Alley); to Philly’s jazz music scene, where jazz music greats like Billie Holiday and John Coltrane once called home; and to the abundant (and oh-so buzz-worthy) food, drink and art festivals lining the streets all the spring.
Last published in May 2016, the 2023 edition of 36 Hours in Philadelphia joins the ever-growing list of recent Philly awards and accolades, from Guild House Hotel (named one of the best new hotels in the world by Travel; + Leisure) to Harriet’s Bookshop (one of the 10 best Black-owned bookshops in the U.S, per Time Out) to Her Place Supper Club (one of the 50 best new restaurants in the county according to Bon Appétit).