The Finest Jumper Cables of 2024

How We Tested Jumper Cables

Jumper cables are not a complicated tool or accessory. The essential parts are the clamps, the cable wire, and how well the cable is attached to the clamps. For this guide, we did a close visual inspection, a voltage drop test, a load test, and resistance measurements with a multimeter. 

The visual inspection covered the clamps, how well the cables were connected to them, the cables’ flexibility, and the quality of the cable housing. 

A voltage test was done by connecting the booster cables to a DC power source and measuring the voltage drop across the wires. If the voltage changed, that indicated resistance in the cable, which could affect the performance.

An ohmmeter resistance test showed if the cable was properly carrying the current. Minimal resistance means the jumper cables are in good shape. Too much resistance indicates that the cable is not adequately conducting the current.

Our automotive specialist and lead tester of this buyer’s guide, Derek Mau, curated the collection. A regular work day for Derek involves testing almost anything on four wheels, obsessively researching and shopping for the best deal, and writing detailed and informative reviews of all things automotive for GearJunkie.

A variety of jumper cables are featured in this guide for different vehicles and applications, from emergency kit staples to commercial-grade quality. In between, there are several choices for folks who want safe, reliable jumper cables for their car, truck, SUV, or any vehicle with a battery that needs a helping boost to get started. 

Buyers Guide: How to Choose the Best Jumper Cables

Jumper cables, also commonly referred to as “booster cables,” come in varying degrees of quality, lengths, and details, so you’ll want to make sure you pick the pair that’s right for you. 

Wire Diameter

An essential component to consider in jumper cables is the gauge, or thickness, of the wire.

The lower the gauge number, the thicker the wire, which ranges from 1 gauge to 12 gauge. Thicker — or heavy-duty — wires allow more electrical current to pass through.

So, if you have a larger vehicle battery that needs more cold cranking amps to start, you’ll probably want a pair of cables with a lower gauge number. For instance, the VIKING 20 ft. 2 Gauge Super Heavy Duty Jumper Cables set uses 2 gauge wire and is capable of starting big diesel engines in buses or RVs.

The cold cranking amps needed to start smaller vehicles are less than those required for a truck, SUV, or full-size car with a V-8 (or larger) engine.  Hence, 8 or 10-gauge jumper cables are sufficient for compact cars, midsize sedans, and up-to-midsize trucks and crossovers. A good example is the PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE 12 ft. 10 Gauge Jumper Cables.

Bigger vehicles with larger engines—for example, full-size trucks, SUVs, and large sedans—understandably need more power and cables of 2 to 6 gauge, like the Energizer 6 Gauge Jumper Cables that uses 6 gauge wire to carry the current without overheating. 

Terminal Clamps

Booster cables can have alligator or parrot clamps. An alligator clamp has two rectangular-shaped opposing sides, and some designs have a silhouette of sharp teeth on the inside. The arching profile of a parrot clamp looks like the smooth curved beak of a parrot with a point on the end. Inside, the clamp can still have a jagged edge that looks like shark teeth.

Overall, the outline of an alligator clamp looks slightly more linear, like a triangle, with a more pointed end. A parrot clamp is a tad more rounded.

Alligator clamps work well when connecting to battery terminals positioned at the top or side of a 12-volt battery. Plus, if the jaws have teeth on the top and the inside, they can grab the battery terminal in multiple positions. Parrot clamps are handy when connecting to top post terminals or when space is tight around the battery terminals.

Cable Length

The conditions under which you use them will determine the length of the jumper cables. Since it is hard to imagine when and where you’ll have to use the booster cables, 12 – 20 feet will work in most scenarios.

A longer length will allow more distance between vehicles in areas with high traffic and limited parking choices. A good example that will have the reach for almost any situation is the ABN Jumper Cables, 25 ft, 2 Gauge, 600 AMP that stretch 25 feet — longer than a full-size truck or SUV.

Wire Composition

The purpose of jumper cables is to conduct electricity from a donor power source to a tired or weak battery that cannot start a vehicle. Copper is one of the best conductors of electricity, but the disadvantages of using pure copper wire are cost, weight, and strength.

A cost-effective solution is to use copper-clad or copper-coated aluminum wire. Although it has a lower level of electrical conductivity than solid copper wire, it will still carry plenty of juice to revive a dead battery. Two of the best examples we tested that use copper-coated aluminum wire are the Goodyear 4 Gauge 16 feet and VIKING 20 ft. 2 Gauge Super Heavy Duty Jumper Cables.

Value of Jumper Cables

The amount of money you spend on a set of jumper cables will influence your buying decision. While a budget-priced cable set might fit your allowance, better solutions may be available when your car is distressed and needs a jumpstart.

Fortunately, a wide array of models and prices offer distinctive benefits, for example, the jumper cables from Pittsburgh Automotive and Energizer: the PITTSBURGH AUTOMOTIVE 12 ft. 10 Gauge Jumper Cables and the Energizer 6 Gauge Jumper Cables.

Some jumper cables include a case, whether soft or firm, and certain designs are longer than others or have a higher gauge.

How to Safely Jumpstart Vehicles

The first step can be intimidating if you’re unfamiliar with jumpstarting a rig. Especially if it’s cold outside, you’ll need to reboot fast: It’s no joke when temps hit the negatives and GearJunkie Senior Editor Morgan Tilton needs a jumpstart in Crested Butte, Colorado. (She always has a pair of winter mittens in her truck).

Here’s a full rundown of the steps you’ll follow to get on the road again:

1. Position the two vehicles close enough—but not touching each other—so that the jumper cables reach from the donor battery to the one that needs help.
2. Look at the battery and identify the positive and negative terminal posts. The positive side typically has a RED cable and a “+” symbol. The negative side has a black cable attached and marked with a “—” symbol.
3. Correctly hooking up the cables will ensure a safe and steady current flow from the donor car to the weak or dead battery.
4. The jumper cables have four clamps—two at each end. Red clamps attach to the positive terminal, and black clamps attach to the negative post or ground point. Attach the red clamp of one end of the jumper cable to the dead battery’s positive terminal. Leave the black clamp unattached for now.
5. Attach the red clamp to the positive terminal at the good battery, then connect the black clamp to the negative post.
6. Return to the vehicle that needs a boost and connect the black clamp to a bare metal, solid ground point in the engine bay, such as a metal bracket attached to the engine block away from a fuel line or an unpainted strut tower bolt. Using a ground point instead of the negative battery post avoids potentially dangerous sparks.
7. Start the vehicle with the good battery and let it run for about two minutes to charge the dead or weak battery.
8. Start the car with the dead battery and allow it to run for approximately two minutes to allow it to recharge.
9. Disconnect cables in reverse order, starting with the negative cable clamped to bare metal in the engine bay. Do not let the clamps touch metal to avoid an accidental spark or damage to the vehicle’s electrical system.
10. Drive the restarted vehicle for 20 – 30 minutes so it can recover.

When to Replace Your Jumper Cables

If you have a set of jumper cables tucked away in your truck or car trunk, occasionally doing a quick visual inspection is a good idea. Look for cracks or worn spots in the insulation housing to ensure the cables are in good condition, and check that the clamps are securely attached to the wire.

A brief inspection might avoid any potential accidents.

If you upgrade your vehicle, make sure the cables you have are adequate including the length, clamp style, and gauge or wire diameter.

FAQ

First, attach the red clamp on the jumper cable to the positive side of the working battery. Second, connect the red clamp on the other end to the positive terminal on the dead or tired battery. Third, clamp the black cable to the negative side of the working battery. Finally, clip the last black clamp to a metal part in the engine bay. Do not connect the negative side of the cable to the dead battery.

Jumper cables come in different gauges (cable diameter) ranging from one to twelve. The gauge of the cable indicates the amount of power it can handle, with lower numbers indicating higher power capacity. For most standard vehicles, 4- to 6-gauge jumper cables are sufficient. However, you should use 2-gauge cables for optimal performance if you have a larger vehicle like a diesel truck. Smaller vehicles can typically use 8- to 10-gauge jumper cables.

Sometimes, jumper cables and a boost from another vehicle aren’t enough to get your car going again. There are several reasons why you’re unable to jumpstart a car. Here are things you can check if a service technician isn’t nearby:

1. Inspect cables to the battery to ensure they are secure and not covered with corrosion.
2. Clean any corrosion off of the posts or terminals.
3. If you hear a clicking noise when turning on the ignition, it may indicate a broken starter.
4. The battery is done and may need replacement.

A dead battery can signal a bigger problem. If the battery can’t hold a charge, it may need replacement. Rather than wait for another battery-related problem to arise, take your vehicle to a service center or auto parts store. Most places will test the battery free of charge.

To ensure a safe and successful jumpstart, attach jumper cables following these steps:

1. Connect the red clamp to the positive terminal on the dead battery.
2. Connect the other end of the red clamp to the positive terminal on the donor vehicle’s working battery.
3. Connect the black clamp to the negative terminal on the donor vehicle’s working battery.
4. Finally, connect the last black clamp to an unpainted metal part of the dead car (e.g., a bolt or bracket) not next to the battery. This method will prevent any unintentional sparks.