Before visiting Marseille, I didn’t know what to expect. Of course, I heard it is one of the most dangerous cities in Europe. But I also heard about Napoli (Naples) and didn’t experience anything remotely dangerous or remotely as distasteful. We already want to go back to Napoli. As a street-savvy traveler, I packed my bags, booked a train, and headed South to Marseille to watch sailing during the Paris 2024 Olympic Games.
Let me preface this piece with a bit about me. I have lived in four different countries and speak three languages. My family and have visited at least 12 different cities in France alone over the past 12 years. I have traveled from modern cities like Beijing and New York City to rural towns in Costa Rica and Italy.
From all these experiences, I never experienced the vibe of what occurred in Marseille. And this was during the Olympics when Marseille was supposed to welcome the world.
What is it about Marseille?
Marseille is a port city with just under 1 million people. The city itself is impressive – it boasts monuments at nearly every corner. You can visit the beautiful Calanques National Park outside the city via ferry.
There are castles, such as where the Count of Monte Cristo took place, and beautiful churches. But there is a catch. Being a port city with many monuments attracts large cruise ships.
It is common knowledge that cruise ships can benefit the economy but also harm the local people (and the environment). Sometimes, the city will be filled with thousands of tourists visiting for the day. That means the city has to accommodate people who typically aren’t interested in being poised visitors.
Being a port city also brings crime and immigration issues. There is a noticeable divide between “locals” and immigrants, which can turn hostile in neighborhoods outside the main tourist areas. The city has dealt with a tumultuous past with colliding cultures and a lack of resources.
Is Marseille really that dangerous?
The city has dangerous neighborhoods, but most are located outside the main tourist areas (check out this article for the map (in French)). French newspapers have written that fatal shootings and homicides have increased exponentially in 2023 and into 2024. Many English news outlets call it the most dangerous city in Europe.
As with most “dangerous cities,” they are generally located in specific areas. In Marseille, the northern districts have been associated with gang activity and violent crime. But like many large urban centers, crime in Marseille is often concentrated in specific neighborhoods, and most visitors experience the city without any incidents.
The city is working to improve safety by increasing the police presence and adding community programs. So, while it may have areas of concern, Marseille is still an incredible city with a rich history and many safe areas, depending on your background.
What it is like visiting as an American
From the four days I spent in Marseille, I experienced constant stress and anxiety due to the way I was treated as an American. As a street-savvy traveler who speaks enough French to get by, I was still singled out and targeted for scams.
I was traveling with my husband, three-year-old daughter, mother, and one of my mother’s friends. On multiple occasions, my family and I were denied entry, denied proper seating arrangements, and denied basic niceties that we experience in other cities around the world.
When we inquired as to why there was so much hatred, people in Marseille stated that Americans should “take off their baseball caps” and “leave.”
Here are just a few of the most notable experiences we had:
“5-Star” Hotel
To start the trip, we decided to book one night at what was listed as a “5-star hotel” – the Intercontinental Hotel Dieu. When we arrived, the staff was friendly enough, and the main areas of the hotel were lovely especially the view.
But we entered a room in a concerning state. There were spills all over the furniture, black mold in the bathroom, hair and white powder on the tables, and wet chairs. The most concerning part? The chain lock was completely broken, hanging off the wall.
We called to request a different room, and we waited a very long time to hear back. Then, we waited three additional hours for a new room. The new room had similar issues but appeared cleaner. Despite the issues, we stayed the night.
But we experienced constant delays in ordering and receiving drinks, snacks, etc. We thought it could be the culture of the vacation city, but we were wrong.
Note: Our hotel for the next two days was much nicer—the Hôtel La Residence Du Vieux Port, which we recommend. The staff was incredible, and the rooms were much nicer.
Rude & Judgmental Waitstaff
The most appalling experience was when my family and I attempted to dine at a well-reviewed restaurant, 1860 Le Palais. I assumed we could walk there and be seated, as with most restaurants worldwide with open tables. If they were full, we could go elsewhere.
It was 35 Celsius/95 Fahrenheit with scorching sun. When we asked for a table of 5, the waitress said she had “one table available in the direct sun” (there were multiple open tables in the shade) or a place inside. Assuming the other tables were booked, we took the place inside.
We were seated and waited to order. Another waitress came to take our order. She rolled her eyes while taking my order. I placed my three-year-old daughter’s order, and she asked, “Is that it for the food for the table?” As there were four remaining adults, we said no, and my mother attempted to order.
The waitress shook her head, rolled her eyes, and acted so outwardly rudely that we asked if there was a problem. She pretended not to hear, but when asked if she wanted us to leave, she said, “Yes.” She told us that she did not want us to dine there and that she did not want to serve us. We left immediately.
We informed the initial waitress, who proceeded to laugh and go to the other waitress and laugh with her, pointing to us. A manager asked to speak with us, and we told him what had happened. We will never return here nor recommend it to Americans.
I have never left a restaurant before in my 35 years of life. If this is how 5 white Americans (three of which have lived in Europe for over two years) are treated for our nationality, I cannot even fathom the treatment of other cultures. And yes, we tried to order in French.
No Ice Cream for You
A less mean, but still petty, reaction we encountered was trying to buy gelato. We ordered two gelatos and asked for a separate spoon or cup to share some with our three-year-old daughter.
The server said “no.” We asked if we could purchase the additional cup, the answer was “no.” Could we get an extra spoon? “No.”
While other visitors to the store were allowed multiple samples, disposing of extra spoons, we could not purchase one. We quickly learned that we shouldn’t expect simple niceties since we are not from Marseille.
No you, can’t sit there, or there, or there
One night, my husband and I went out for drinks. We went to a restaurant, Le Caribou. We asked to be seated; the server instructed us that we could go directly to the bar for drinks. We went to the bar, who said she would not serve us unless we were seated.
We asked her to sit at a table to the side and pointed to it. She said yes, we will come. So we went to sit exactly where we were told. Someone new came outside and said we could not sit there. We were then instructed to talk to the first server we spoke with to get a table.
He checked to see if he had room, then said sit anywhere. We then waited a long time to order, and a long time to receive our drinks, and to pay. Every interaction was met with rolling eyes.
Physical limitations? That’s your problem
Another appalling experience was when we were on the tourist train (that train you see going around major cities like Paris to easily see the sights). We never booked these, but with a 3-year-old and two seniors, it seemed like a good option.
Again, it was 35 Celsius/95 Fahrenheit with a very strong sun out. The train goes to the top of a high hill to the Basilique Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde. At the top, the train operator told everyone to exit, and they could get back on the train by standing in a very long line with no shade.
Two elderly American tourists using walkers asked if they could stay on the train and return to the pickup point. They said it was difficult for them and wanted to see the sights.
The train operator said it was impossible, forcing them to get off. This took considerable time, and the train operator did nothing to help them. The elderly people then went in the long line to get back on the train, sitting in the scorching sun.
Scams everywhere
We also experienced a few scams in the Le Vieux Port, the tourist city center. On one occasion, a person attempted to locate our hotel, telling us that the city would be dangerous that night, and asked to help us get back to our hotel.
Tourist activities are the bare minimum of hospitality and lack essentials. There are even fraudulent tourist activities that take complete advantage of tourists. Make sure to research your tours before you go, and go with a credible guide. We didn’t research well and ended up on a 3-hour ferry that took almost 5 hours and didn’t even have water available.
Pickpockets are noticeable but not as bad as in Barcelona or Paris. We didn’t experience them, but we know of others who did. The gold ring or lost jewelry scam is also prevalent. Be aware if someone attempts to give you jewelry that you “dropped.”
A big inconvenience
All of these interactions, which words cannot begin to describe, made us feel like as Americans were lower than dirt for no reason. We came to experience a new city, to learn and grow. We left feeling defeated and, for the first time, like we didn’t want to return to the city.
The people we interacted with in Marseille did not want Americans to be there. So, they made every interaction difficult and degrading.
We even posted about the broken hotel lock on our Threads account, and the responses from Marseille locals show the true sentiment. You need to read the Threads post here.
- “Please leave, Marseille doesn’t want you”
- “Please go back to the hell hole you’re from”
- “of course you’re american”
- “You pack and leave Marseille and France and pls NEVER come back . . .”
No, we didn’t “ask for it”
I know what you might be thinking – an entitled American goes to France, acts loud and obnoxious, dresses in athletic gear, and complains about slow service.
That’s a cute sentiment, but it’s not true. Contrary to social media comments, I do not wear a baseball hat, I do not wear branded clothing, and I am not loud. I am also educated on the social norms of France, having been here more than a dozen times. This is simply the culture of the city.
To avoid the distaste of Americans, avoid dining in groups, wear clothing that blends in, and speak softly. Even speak in another language than English to avoid hatred. Anytime we spoke Dutch before ordering, we were treated better.
Overall sentiment
Marseille has a lot of potential, but we won’t be back. We loved visiting the Le Panier neighborhood, which is more welcoming to people of different backgrounds.
Here, you can see street art and shop at fine independent shops. There are also great restaurants. Le Vieux Port also has a lot to do. If you stick to the tourist areas, you will be okay.
We likely won’t return to this city, which is unfortunate. We probably wouldn’t recommend it to other Americans, and especially not to people of color. The clear hatred towards different nationalities makes this city not enjoyable and stressful for us.
If you decide to go, we will guide you through the sights. Just avoid the spots listed in this article.
