The view from Margy’s Hut looks south into the Elk Mountains near Aspen, Colo. I sipped a beer from the porch, watching the alpenglow shine pink on the alpine slopes of Ashcroft Mountain, Mount Shirmer, Green Mountain, and some others I couldn’t name. Inside, I could hear happy hour sounds: people laughing, conversations, and exclamations over the appetizers. I soaked in the moment.
Normally, when I’m at a 10th Mountain Division Hut, there’s snow on the ground. I arrive by ski. We melt our drinking water and spend the days touring the surrounding mountains. These are my favorite winter backcountry objectives. I try to knock one or two of them off the list every season.
However, this was August. I was wearing shorts, sandals, and a Stetson, and my companions and I had arrived that afternoon on horseback. This was the third night of our 4-day hut-to-hut ride. This trip, the “Vail to Aspen Ride,” is both infamous and obscure. Few seem to know about it.
But, the co-owner of Bearcat and our lead wrangler that week, Leeds Butcher, has had this trip featured in some of the most prominent travel and luxury magazines in Colorado and nationally, like Vail-Beaver Creek Magazine and Food & Wine, to name a few.
It’s a swanky trip. And it costs a pretty penny. But Bearcat Stables is one of the only outfitters in Colorado with a permit to guide trips that cross from one United States Forest Service (USFS) Ranger District into another. You start in the Eagle-Holy Cross Ranger District and end in the Sopris District — crossing some of the most spectacular parts of the White River National Forest.
I do not typically go on backcountry trips that would be featured in a magazine like Food & Wine. I’m usually skiing or backpacking — sleeping in a tent, eating camp meals out of bags or cans, filtering my water, and wearing the same clothes for days on end.
I won’t tell you this trip isn’t rugged, dirty, or challenging. It is all of those things. But it’s definitely luxe compared to my typical 3-night exploits in Colorado’s backcountry. So, here’s what you need to know to embark on your own hut-to-hut trip by horseback.
Bearcat Stables’ Vail to Aspen Ride: What to Expect
“We’ve been doing this trip for 25 years,” Butcher told me. He’s personally completed around 50 of these 63-mile rides in his 18 years working at Bearcat. Just between Vail and Aspen, Butcher has probably logged thousands of miles. And every single trip has been its own unique adventure, he said.
However, depending on the time of year, the group, the wranglers, and a hundred other variables, it’s never a dull 4 days.
Along the way, you not only get to stay in two of the oldest (and two of my personal favorite) 10th Mountain Division Huts and a historic guest ranch, but you also get fed gourmet rustic meals three times a day. There is no other experience like this one in Colorado and few that are more true to the state’s roots.
“We take a tremendous amount of pride in this trip,” Butcher said. “The horses, the huts, the land, I mean, it’s all very important to us.”
The Huts
10th Mountain Division Huts are an experience unto themselves. They’re a communal resource operated by the 10th Mountain Division Hut Association, a nonprofit organization. Named after the U.S. mountaineer soldiers famously trained at Camp Hale, Colo., during WWII, these huts can be reserved by individuals or groups throughout the year.
When I’m trying to convince people to join our ski hut trips, I describe them as “rustic-chic.” The huts have beds, living areas, cast iron fireplaces and ovens, propane stove burners, fully kitted kitchens, and outhouses.
They’re stocked with firewood and supplies like matches and toilet paper. They also usually have great bookshelves and a handful of games and puzzles.
Unlike my typical experience at these huts, on Bearcat’s Vail to Aspen Ride, your luggage is portaged. You pack up your sleeping bag and personal items every morning, and the wranglers who aren’t riding throw it all in a trailer.
Then, it’s waiting for you when you arrive at your evening destination. There’s no need to pack ultralight for this trip — though the wranglers certainly appreciate you leaving the kitchen sink at home.
So, what do you pack for 4 days on horseback in the Colorado Rockies, staying at 10th Mountain Division Huts?
Horseback Hut Trip: Gear for a 4-Day Ride
I’ve always been able to fit my things into a single 32L duffel bag. Some people want to bring a lot more luggage and don’t hesitate to overpack — the pack horse isn’t carrying it, after all.
Still, the wranglers carry your bags from their trailer to the huts and back, and they notice which packs are light and which are heavy. During the day, you can pack your saddle bag with whatever personal or necessary items you want.
Here is my general packing list.
- Rain jacket (slickers are provided, but you can bring your own jacket)
- Sunglasses
- Hat (ball cap for brimmed hat)
- Beanie (it can get cold at night)
- Sleeping bag
- Hiking boots/riding footwear
- Long socks x5
- Underwear x5
- Bike shorts (I don’t wear them, but some people swear by them)
- Riding chaps (Again, I don’t wear them, but they look pretty darn cool)
- Long pants x3 / x4
- T-shirts x3 / x4
- Long sleeve shirts x3 / x4
- Hut hangout clothes (think comfort)
- Midlayer/flannel
- Toiletries/personal items
- Sunscreen
- Beer/wine/liquor (BYOB)
- Instruments? (Butcher plays the guitar and piano and enthusiastically recommended I bring my guitar, too. But a mandolin, ukelele, or harmonica — anything that would be good for campfire songs is welcome.)
Experience, Hazards, and Expectations
People sign up for this trip with differing levels of riding experience. Butcher said as long as you’re at least comfortable on a horse, you can get by.
The more saddle time you have, the better, though. You’ll be more comfortable with the animals, but you’ll also be more comfortable overall. You spend between 6 and 8 hours in the saddle daily, riding up and down steep hills, across valleys, and even summiting a peak. If you don’t ride a lot, you’ll feel it at the end of each day.
Butcher also adds that it’s nice to have some experience with Western-style riding, specifically. This ain’t no English pleasure ride, although any riding experience is better than none.
No matter how much experience you have, don’t expect this trip to be a mindless walk in the woods. Riders have to be constantly wary of trail hazards like animal burrows or ground nesting wasps that can sting your horse and send it bucking.
And while there are no poisonous snakes, there are bears and mountain lions in Colorado. Butcher doesn’t ride without a .357 revolver on his hip.
The Weather
As far as the weather, expect the unexpected. It can be beautiful. It can also turn on a dime and throw long days of rain or short, violent hailstorms at you. Summer weather in Colorado is known for its bipolar mood swings.
“We’ve gotten into some situations with the weather where I’ve been like, ‘Oh my gosh. This is unbelievable. Here we go,’” Butcher told me with a chuckle.
Typically, though, he said, when they run these Vail to Aspen Rides between July and August, the days are sunny and warm and 75-85 degrees.
The Food
Despite traveling through the backcountry, the food is a highlight of this trip. Just about any food would taste great after you’ve spent the entire day on top of a horse, but Bearcat always has a gourmet chef accompanying the crew. When you get to your destination, snacks and appetizers are waiting for you, and dinner is on its way.
Sandwiches or wraps are packed for lunch, carried by the pack horse, and enjoyed on the trail. For breakfast, there’s coffee, granola, fruit, and/or eggs and bacon. Some mornings, they’ll throw out bagel sandwich makings.
Over the years, Bearcat has had a handful of different chefs, and in my experience, they’ve all been amazing. But the chef as of this writing is Adam Weinberger, a Vail ski fanatic and trained gourmet who primarily works private events in the Vail Valley — and for Bearcat in the backcountry.
I won’t torture you by describing every delicious detail of the meals he made using the 10th Mountain Division huts’ cast iron cookware, over the firepit, or on grills. But here are a few of my favorites: seared ribeye steak with chimichurri sauce and roasted vegetables, chicken curry and rice with tom yung soup on the side, or bone-in short ribs with cheesy polenta and broccolini.
When we asked him, Chef Adam said he tries never to repeat the same menu twice over a summer. He mixes it up every trip as best he can.
And if you find wild edible mushrooms or berries growing while you ride, harvest them and bring them along. He’ll cook them up or find a way to use them in whatever meal he has planned.
The Route & Itinerary
The route that Bearcat is permitted to follow on the Vail to Aspen Ride passes through some of the most scenic country in Colorado’s Rocky Mountains. You pass through the White River National Forest, riding beneath the New York Mountains, through pastures and valleys, over creeks and rivers, into a Wilderness Area, and finally, you approach the Elk Mountains near Aspen.
During the journey, you’ll enjoy unparalleled views of some of Colorado’s most iconic peaks.
The mornings are early, but the riding doesn’t start until around 9:00 a.m. every day after people have had their fill of caffeine and sustenance.
The first day, from Bearcat to Peter Estin Hut, is the longest day, covering about 20 miles. The subsequent days are both easier and shorter (though not by much).
“It’s hard to pick a favorite day or part of the trip,” Butcher said. “Each day represents something totally different.”
Here is the general itinerary.
- Day 1: Bearcat Stables to Peter Estin Hut: Ride past New York Mountain, descending into Yoeman Park, and then reascend what’s called the “Iron Edge” through old-growth pine forests before emerging at Peter Estin Hut.
- Day 2: Peter Estin Hut to Yolande Mountain Cabins: Descend from Peter Estin into Lime Park, with incredible views of the back sides of the New Yorks. You pass by another 10th Mountain Division Hut (Harry Gates) as you move up and over into the next valley, the Frying Pan. You descend and stay that night at Yolande Mountain Cabins, a historic guest ranch on the Frying Pan River. This is the only night not spent in a 10th Hut, and guests have their own small cabins and access to showers.
- Day 3: Yolande Mountain Cabins to Margy’s Hut: Ascend into the Hunter-Frying Pan Wilderness for a long day of climbing through pine forests. You emerge in a pasture at your lunch spot, with mind-blowing views of the Maroon Bells. Then, you ascend to the top of Mount Yeckel, 11,759 feet, with panoramic views of the Rocky Mountains. Capitol Peak, Pyramid Peak, The Bells, Mount Massive, Mount Elbert, Holy Cross, Notch Mountain, and the back side of Red Table all dominate the view. From Yeckel, you make a short descent to Margy’s Hut. Do not let your horse turn over in the watering hole on the way. You will go with it.
- Day 4: Margy’s Hut to Hunter Creek Trailhead: Depart Margy’s and ride trails and service roads down into Hunter Creek, with gorgeous glimpses of the Aspen Valley popping into view. Then, the ride ends at Hunter Creek Trailhead, where guests are picked up and shuttled back to Bearcat.
The Price
Obviously, at $3,300 per person, this is an expensive trip for just about anyone. However, Butcher said it sells out every year within a few weeks of the booking opening. They don’t struggle to fill this trip up despite the price they charge for it.
I asked Butcher if they’d ever considered offering a more rustic and less luxurious trip, where riders camped along the way — even with simpler food. He said they had, but the permits they have for this trip are limited and very particular. So, unfortunately, they’ll never offer a dirtbag budget option — they don’t really need to.
And besides, considering the full experience — the huts, the meals, the campfire music, good conversation, long days riding through extremely remote areas, and everything you learn from your wranglers — that steep price feels fairer.
This is one of the most unique trips I’ve ever been on. Whether you’re from Colorado or not, it’s one of the most memorable ways to experience and see this state. The price would be a lot harder to justify if it wasn’t such a damn cool trip.
Bearcat Stables Hut-to-Hut on Horseback: ‘Trip of a Lifetime’
Depending on when you book your trip, your experience will differ slightly. In July, the wildflowers are exploding in the high country. In August, the wild mushrooms and berries are usually plentiful. The seasonality is diverse even though Bearcat only runs this trip for about 2 months of the year, Butcher said.
The booking for Bearcat Stables’ summer trips opens around the first week of October. Butcher said the slots fill up quickly, so if you’re interested, it’s best to get on the website and secure your trip before they run out. Bearcat runs these trips from July to late August and typically do about eight per summer.
“We just want to exceed everybody’s expectations, and that’s what we’ve been able to do over the last 25 years,” Butcher said. “We don’t have an exact tagline for it. But, it’s a trip of a lifetime, really.”
