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Using second-tier gear or a setup that’s better suited for outdoor climbing can lead to frustration, hassle, and decreased performance indoors. I think of the times I stopped in at my local gym on the way home from the crag but only had my outdoor gear with me. And the hassle of trying to find a cubby for my giant crag pack. Or struggling in the bouldering cave with a stiff pair of edging shoes. And finally, using my chalk bag like a chalk pot and spilling it all over.
I’ve slowly wised up to having specific climbing gym gear. A gym bag or tote ready to go, preloaded with indoor-specific gear. This includes a harness, a belay device, belay glasses, a water bottle, and a little spray bottle for moistening my hands between goes (I have dry skin).
I also bring snacks, a chalk bag, a chalk pot, brush/es, a sling, and a carabiner for max hangs. I bring a weighted vest for pull-ups. Finally, I have at least two pairs of shoes: a softer pair of slippers or Velcro shoes for bouldering and a stiffer pair for roped climbing, especially vertical routes.
Pro Tip No. 1: Gym-wall surfaces and pointy jibs are tough on rock shoes, smoothing out your rubber and poking holes in your toebox. Keep a few pairs of rock gym-only shoes to sacrifice to this wear and tear.
Pro Tip No. 2: Buy an ultralight, gym-only harness; that way, your outdoor harness isn’t loaded up with belay-certification tags.
In recent rounds of testing climbing gym gear, a handful of items have come my way that, though they may overlap with outdoor climbing, also seemed perfect for indoors. Two, in fact — the Mystery Ranch Superset 30 pack and the SCARPA Veloce — were designed only for the gym, showing the importance of this ever-expanding gear niche.
Here are seven must-haves for your 2023 (and beyond) gym season.
2023 Gym Kit: 7 Must-Haves
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Upper
Leather and canvas -
Midsole
EVA -
Outsole
Five Ten Stealth Marathon -
Closure
Elastic -
Sizes
Men’s and women’s
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Collapsible heel converts shoe to slip on -
Stylish -
Comfortable canvas and mesh upper
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Clip loops on the ankle cuff are tight — they could be bigger for locking carabiners -
Pull tabs on the tongue are too small for big fingers, but were unnecessary
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Weight
2.3 lbs. -
Volume
1,695 cu. in. -
Dimensions
19.75″ x 11″ x 10.5″ -
Main materials
1,000D CORDURA nylon with 200D nylon liner
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Excellent organization -
Clear pockets made finding things easy -
Comfortable padded back panel -
Durable 1,000D CORDURA body
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Water ingress could be a concern when carrying a computer -
Water bottle pocket was a tad shallow for taller bottles, though an elastic collar helps
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Soft, plus-size, densely bristled head cleaned all holds well -
The neck was sturdy and thick — no signs of fatigue -
Long-lasting — good value for the money
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Larger/heavier brush to carry on limit redpoint, though it still fit into brush holders
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Weight
0.388 lbs. -
Dimensions
9.65″ H X 10.83″ W X 7.09″ D -
Main materials
bluesign-approved 840D recycled ballistic nylon, PFC/PFAS-free DWR -
Closure
Roll-top with magnets
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Magnetic closure reliably and automatically kept contained chalk between problems -
Roll-top closure kept the chalk pot cinched down and leak-free in gym bag -
Big mouth made dipping easy, and unlined interior holds tons of chalk
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The vertical brush holder is close to the roll-top, making closing the bucket cumbersome when a brush was stowed there
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Upper
Microsuede -
Midsole
1mm Flexan -
Outsole
4mm SCARPA S-72 -
Symmetry
Slightly asymmetric -
Closure
Single strap
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Light and soft feel with good feedback made them versatile on all angles indoors -
Notable comfort, especially for wide feet -
Rounded toebox forces you to be deliberate with your foot placements; good training value
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Closure strap could be too short for some -
Forefoot can pinch wide feet when worn for long durations
