Dubai’s most lavish lodge to this point: My keep at Atlantis The Royal

Quick take

Getting there

Booking details

Standout features

• I was fascinated by the architecture and design features. Unlike Vegas, where I’ve always quickly had enough, I found myself walking around still looking for and wanting more.
• Every staff member, from the industrious bell staff and passionate restaurant servers to the on-point pool attendants and outstanding housekeepers (who came three times a day), ensured that service was flawless, intuitive and warm.
• Elegant rooms marry style and substance, with one of the best hotel beds I’ve ever slept in and incredible views of the Palm and Dubai from pretty much every vantage point.
• Culinary excellence and diversity – the entire Atlantis hotel complex is home to three Michelin-starred restaurants and eight restaurants with menus created by Michelin-lauded chefs.

Caveats

• For travelers looking to experience Dubai’s attractions, Old Town and local restaurants, Atlantis The Royal’s location may feel too isolated and logistically challenging.
• While there is an inviting family pool and children are made to feel very welcome, this is very much a grown-up resort that caters to style-conscious couples and multi-generational families with teens and older children; many restaurants only permit children 10 years and above.
• The Atlantis Atlas Project aims to minimize environmental impact by reducing plastics, eliminating food waste, and sourcing local food where possible, which was all very much in evidence. It was surprising, though, to still see mini, single-use toiletry bottles in the bathrooms.
• Rates are high compared to other high-end Dubai hotels, even those at the pinnacle of the luxury category.

The vibe

With a design focus on water and light, as well as enormous windows that immediately draw visitors’ attention to dazzling skyline views, the lobby didn’t feel as overwhelming or as overtly showy as I anticipated. Different seating arrangements, textures and focal points created a relaxed intimacy despite its vast scale.

The terraced Royal pools, which lead down to the private beachfront, are shaded by palms and vegetation to provide privacy and seclusion for couples and families — and the perfect place to get over any jet lag with a quick nap.

Over at Nobu by the Beach and at the Cloud 22 sky pool, a more style-conscious, clubby vibe prevails with cocktails flowing and plenty of Insta-moments being captured and replayed.

Whatever mood you are looking for, you can surely find here. At night, most guests dress up for dinner — there’s a smart-casual dress code (no sandals or shorts for men) in most restaurants. For the most part, though, the ambience is approachable and low-key, and everyone just seems to be having a really great time.

The room

With 795 rooms, suites and penthouses (including 44 with private infinity pools), all with views of either the Palm (and Dubai skyline) or the Arabian Sea, there are plenty of accommodations to choose from. My entry-level Queenscape Palm View Room with two queen beds was on the 26th floor and measured just under 600 square feet.

With a muted grey and white color palette, elegant dark wooden furnishings and plush carpet with undulating streaks of blue, the overriding aesthetic was of restrained sophistication. My eyes were immediately drawn, though, to the large terrace, which was far and away the highlight of the room, with sweeping views of the Palm framed by Dubai’s skyscrapers.

In the corner of the room, an oval marble table and contemporary light fixtures gleamed with gilt accents, and two sleek armchairs provided a seating area and comfortable workspace (with thoughtfully placed outlets), ideally positioned to take in the views. There was also a large flat-screen TV and complimentary Wi-Fi, which was fast and reliable.

The sumptuous marble bathroom with a deep soaking tub and dual vanities was separated from the bedroom by “magic glass” and stocked with Acqua di Palma toiletries in the shower, as well bespoke amenities from Graff and super-soft Frette bathrobes and towels. The only real evidence of bling was a gold-rimmed, white, lacquered box that housed a gold-colored comb, razor and toothbrushes.

Just off the entryway was a massive walk-in wardrobe and dressing room, which featured another full-length mirror. By the bedside was an illuminated touchscreen panel with six lighting options and more outlets compatible with British, U.S. and European plugs and chargers.

Exploring my room, I did find myself falling under Dubai’s superlative spell, finding the provided slippers to be extra fluffy, the sheets extra satiny, and the pillow density just right for snuggling under the cloud-like comforter. Housekeeping seemed to magically appear at exactly the right moment (right when we were leaving the room), and often bearing treats, such as a little white drawstring bag filled with mini aftersun lotions.

The six large glass bottles of complimentary Voss water were replenished twice daily, along with a selection of Nespresso pods, various teas, and a well-stocked minibar. I was still coming across accessories, like a woven beach bag and two pairs of flip-flops, in drawers on my last morning.

Since I had already been traveling for 10 days, I was able to test out the express laundry service, which had a flat rate of 200 dirhams (around $54) for 10 items (dry clean or regular wash) and our clothes came back laundered and folded so neatly that I almost didn’t want to pack them away again.

Food and drink

With 17 restaurants and bars, including eight helmed by celebrity chefs, foodies could happily indulge for at least a week at Atlantis The Royal, though I did my best in two days.

You can trace centuries of British culinary heritage at Dinner By Heston Blumenthal, where the famed chef conjures his pioneering molecular gastronomy; sample classic Spanish tapas from Jose Andrés at Jaleo; or slink over to the fashionable Nobu by the Beach (the brand’s first pool and beach club), to chill, dine on Japanese bites and listen to live DJs. While restaurants at The Royal are pricey, they were on par with what I’d expect to pay at a high-end restaurant back home in Chicago.

La Mar by Gastón Acurio

With outposts in Lima and Miami, La Mar is helmed by Gastón Acurio, the celebrity chef credited with thrusting Peru’s national dish, ceviche, into the spotlight.

Inside the sleek dining room, a buzzing open kitchen and a centerpiece seafood bar are surrounded by richly hued tiles and mosaics, and ocean-inspired glass pendant lighting. It was still too hot at 8 p.m to dine on the terrace with skyline views, but the bustling indoor dining room was pleasant.

The menu showcases contemporary and classic ceviche, nigiri, anticuchos (Peruvian skewers) and larger rice dishes ideal for sharing.

After ordering a frothy pisco sour, I took the advice of our knowledgeable server and opted for the chef’s multi-course menu, which included a cebiche tasting (190 dirhams, or $51), nigiri cebichero of Hokkaido scallop with Peruvian yellow chili (55 dirhams, or $14), and arroz con mariscos, Peru’s traditional take on paella, with scallops, squid, octopus and shrimp (340 dirhams, or $92). The highlight was definitely the incredibly fresh cebiche and nigiri. The rice dish tasted flavorful and soaked up all the seafood flavors, but it was just a little on the heavy side, especially given everything else we’d tasted.

Jaleo by Jose Andrés

On the second night, we dined at Jose Andrés’ Jaleo, the restaurant brand known and loved for its classic tapas, paellas, Spanish cheeses and jamón. Many dishes hail from Andrés’ family recipes and are made for sharing.

Inside the vibrant dining room — all bold red light fixtures, plush leather booths and decorative elements with a dash of surrealism — colossal pans of paellas simmer at the open kitchen. Outside, the sunken terrace with a busy bar and ornamental water features is a lively place to end the night with a glass of Spanish wine.

We grazed across most sections of the expansive menu but especially enjoyed the piquant, authentic flavors of classic tapas, such as pan con tomate (toasted bread topped with tomato, garlic and olive oil, 45 dirhams or $12); tender chargrilled octopus (160 dirhams or $45); and patatas bravas (spicy potatoes, 60 dirhams or $14).

Jaleo’s signature dish is the Paella Valenciana (50 dirhams, or $177) which is a commitment, serving four people. If you are a couple and just want to sample it (or are simply fazed by the number of choices on the menu), you can always opt for the ¡Eat like José! tasting menu (500 dirhams, or $136).

Gastronomy

Given the roll-call of celebrity-chef restaurants at The Royal, I was surprised when several guests told me shortly after I’d arrived that their culinary highlight was breakfast at Gastronomy, served from 7 a.m. to noon and included with all room rates.

Taking inspiration from a food market, The Royal’s breakfast buffet is a far cry from any other hotel breakfast that I’ve experienced, even at uber-luxe properties.

Each themed station offers everything from the usual bounty of fresh fruits, made-to-order omelets, baked goods, pancakes and waffles, but then there’s also a live oyster bar, Asian noodle stations, Indian curries, Middle Eastern salads and grilled meat, Naples-style breakfast pizza, ice cream sundaes (with a chocolate fountain) … the list goes on. You could feast like a king for hours here, and many guests were clearly inspired to do just that.

Pools, beach and amenities

As you’d expect, the amenities at Atlantis The Royal keep pace with its surroundings.

If you pass through Dubai in the mid-summer, like me, time outdoors will likely be fairly limited and generally involve getting into the water as fast as possible, which is definitely no chore here.

Overlooking Palm Jumeirah and Dubai’s skyline, a series of palm-fringed terraced pools lead down to the hotel’s pristine 1.5-mile-long private white sand beach.

During my offseason stay, the family-friendly Royal pools had a chilled vibe with a soundtrack of ’90s British anthems playing and plenty of loungers and umbrellas tended to by pool attendants who seemed to anticipate your every need.

As temperatures rose to over 105 degrees Fahrenheit, they were constantly repositioning umbrellas, refilling ice buckets with bottled water and handing out thoughtful cooling treats and balms, like popsicles and aloe vera ice cubes.

The adults-only Cloud 22, which feels like it’s floating over the Palm, is a design and engineering feat with cantilevered “chandelier” umbrellas, a swim-up bar, a DJ booth and a series of pools and hot tubs surrounded by duplex cabanas and loungers, as well as floating sunbeds.

Guests of The Royal also have complimentary access to Atlantis Aquaventure water park (the largest water park in the world with 125 sides) and The Lost Chambers Aquarium, both of which are at Atlantis The Palm next door (around a 10-minute walk). With such thrills as a nine-story, near-vertical drop into a tunnel surrounded by a shark-filled lagoon, as well as tamer, more family-oriented rides, it’s a big hit with older kids, like my 14-year-old son.

Since our water park visit was during low season, most wait times for attractions didn’t exceed more than a few minutes. However, there were uncomfortably long lines, at times (in pretty intense heat), for towels, lockers, beverages and buggy transportation back to the hotels (the complex is massive). There could also be better signage — we walked around in circles trying to find entrances to some rides.

Overlooking a meditation garden, the Awaken fitness center makes it very easy for health-conscious travelers to maintain their daily fitness rituals. Equipped with top-of-the-line Technogym and Outrace equipment, there’s also a fitness studio for classes, a mindfulness pavilion and an 80-foot lap pool. Guests can also book private training sessions through the spa.

The Awaken Spa appeals to travelers looking for a dedicated, wellness-focused retreat and those just looking to unwind after a long flight. Focused on leading-edge treatments and therapies, as well as more holistic regimens and journeys of “self-discovery,” the extensive spa menu incorporates skincare products and healing techniques from luxury skincare brands, including Augustinus Bader and Amra.

Overall, pricing is not too far beyond what you’d expect at any high-end property. Signature treatments included a one-hour Classic Hydrafacial, which costs 1,080 dirhams ($295), the one-hour Method Facial By Augustinus Bader (980 dirhams, or $266) and a Golden Hour, a 90-minute massage (1,200 dirhams, or $326).

If you have time to really indulge, the spa’s facilities invite serious pampering — a halotherapy salt cave, hydrotherapy pool, alchemy shower, aromatherapy steam room, a charcoal sauna and “The Hammam Sensorium,” inspired by Middle Eastern bathhouse culture.

Other properties to consider

Accessibility

Atlantis The Royal offers a limited number of accessible rooms and amenities that can be helpful in navigating both standard rooms and public spaces within the property, such as wheelchairs, toilet frames, shower stools and phones with accessible features for guests who are visually impaired. Due to limited numbers, these items should be requested at the time of booking and with as much advance notice as possible.

The sheer size and high-tech design of the property, with massive open spaces, wide corridors and doorways — and plenty of attentive staff members positioned throughout the hotel — facilitates getting around the hotel if you are in a wheelchair or have reduced mobility concerns.

There are also ramps positioned near the beach, pools and outdoor dining areas. The open plan layout of standard rooms also offers plenty of space to move around in a wheelchair and large bathrooms have separate walk-in showers with a bench, and there are telephones in the rooms’ water closets.

Checking out

Layovers can often be fraught experiences, with such concerns as did I leave my passport on the plane and will my ATM card work, often overwhelming the ability to truly relax and immerse yourself in the destination.

My stay at Atlantis The Royal was one of the most seamless and energizing short layovers that I’ve experienced. From the moment I walked into the lobby, I felt cocooned in luxury and dazzled by views, design features and high-tech conveniences.

Perhaps what impressed me most of all, though, was the impeccable service and attention to detail — with every staff member going above and beyond.

While the rates are high for Dubai, with big-name luxury hotels less than half the price, the perks, amenities (including access to the largest water park in the world at Atlantis, The Palm) and an incredible breakfast make the price feel appropriate.

While Atlantis The Royal can certainly lay claim to being the region’s new standard bearer for luxury, style and architectural ingenuity, the monumental scale and nouveau-riche decadence will not be to everyone’s taste. But this is Dubai, and if you are looking for an on-brand, superlative-charged hotel, The Royal is without a doubt one of the most exciting properties to debut in 2023.