You can use glycolic acid in a variety of methods: an active cleanser, a mask, serum, toner, and the list goes on. How you use it will ultimately depend on personal preference. For instance, Jones and Idriss prefer wash-off products (like masks), while King loves a glycolic acid-soaked peel pad. “I think they make it easy to achieve an even application,” she explains.
A wash-off product, however, can allow more sensitive skin types to reap the benefits of this AHA, sans irritation (since you aren’t leaving it on all night long). With a serum or toner, it’s easy for some to over-exfoliate, says Jones. “With a mask, you use it up to three times a week and will not go overboard,” she adds.
No matter which product you choose, make sure to use it at night, since AHAs like glycolic acid can make skin more photosensitive.
It’s crucial that you don’t follow up with any harsh actives in your routine (even retinol), since glycolic acid is pretty strong. Stick to a gentle cleanser (unless that’s your preferred glycolic acid product), nourishing moisturizer, humectant serums, etc.
You’ll also want to start low and slow with the AHA (i.e., a lower concentration one to two nights a week), working your way up to a regular cadence: The average person can handle two to three times a week, but make sure you know when your skin barrier has had enough.
And as always, give yourself a patch test before trying any new product.
