Sun Temples in India are not easy to visit. They were the most magnificent temples once upon a time, but today they lie in absolute ruins. I have seen Konark Sun Temple in the East with missing Garbhagriha. Then, there is Modhera Sun Temple in the west located on the tropic of cancer in Gujarat, with an empty Garbhagriha.
After a long wait, I got to visit the one in the North – Martand Sun Temple in Anantnag of Kashmir valley. I hope to see the Multan one which I know is almost non-existent, but the place must have experienced the worship of Surya Dev once. From the images, I knew that Martand temple is in ruins, but I still wanted to see it. I wanted to stand there and imagine how it must have been in its hay days, more than 1000 years ago.
What is Martand?
Martand is one of the names of Sun. It comes from Mrit+Anda, which means the dead egg. Story goes that Sun was born from a lifeless egg to Rishi Kashyap and his wife Aditi. Remember he is also called Aditya as he is the son of Aditi. Martand is also one of the key Bhairavas, but this temple in Kashmir is dedicated to Surya Deva.
At the Mattan Surya temple, which is a practicing temple in Mattan village, priest told me that this is where the Surya was born as son of Kashyap Muni. Remember Kashmir is the tapobhumi of Kashyap Rishi and gets its name from him. This is where his progeny began and we all indeed trace our lineage back to him finally.
Nilamata Purana that talks extensively about the Kashmir region, talks about this region as the Martand Tirtha. Fresh water springs are a part of the Tirtha kshetra here.
Sun worship must have been prevalent across India, but unfortunately all our prominent Sun temples are in ruins. Hope ASI takes up and revives at least the big ones and makes them practicing temples.
History of Martand Sun Temple
Lalitaditya Muktapida of the Karkota dynasty built the Martand Sun Temple between 724-760 CE. It is believed that he had installed a Copper Murti of the Surya Deva called Tamra Swami.
In late 11th CE, Kalasa, a Lohara dynasty king replaced it with a golden Murti.
The temple was continuously worshiped till late 14th CE when it was desecrated and destroyed by Sikandar Miri.
It is said that the massive earthquake of 1554 CE did not impact the sacred spots of Martanda, Vijayeshwara and Varaha Kshetra. In my opinion, this needs to be studied, from a sacred geography perspective.
Abul Fazal mentions the temple in his Ain-e-Akbari about a visit of Akbar to the temple. He says the region is full of Brahmins, with a huge temple and a spring, the water from which is full of fish.
Architecture
Martand Sun Temple is located on a high plateau that gives a good view of the valley around. Today, you must climb a flight of stairs to reach the temple entrance.
Martand Sun Temple is an epitome of Kashmiri Architecture just like Kandariya Mahadev Temple is for Nagar style, Lingaraja Temple is for Kalinga style and Brihdeeshwara Temple is for Dravid style of temple architecture.
The temple has a rectangular structure overall, 220 feet long and 142 feet wide. You enter the temple through a double chambered gateway. You see grand courtyard surrounded by a colonnaded corridor, which are in ruins. There were 84 smaller temples surrounding the main temple. I wonder who all they were dedicated to. A lot of stones are scattered all around. A board tells that this is local Devri stone.
Stepwell
A small stepwell stands right in front of the Jagati or the base on which the main temple stands. Standing at this stepwell, gives a good vantage point to see the temple all around and feel its grandeur.
Temple has a Garbhagriha, which unfortunately is empty and people visit it with their footwear on. It is connected to mandapa vis an Antrala or a vestibule. The mandapa has two Gavaksha or windows on either side. When you stand here, you get a good view of the corridor surrounding the temple. The pyramidical Shikhara is absent leaving an open roof.
Sculptures
I could see the sculptures of Ganga, Yamuna, and Vishnu on the walls. They are in an eroded state. I assume because of the harsh weather that includes snowfall in winter months. The open roof leaves no protection whatsoever for the finely carved sculptures.
As I took Parikrama around the temple, I came across large sculptures all around the Jagati or the base of the temple. Some of these on the southern wall are intact. You see a Gajapatta or a row of elephants carved on the base.
I spotted a relief of Surya Dev, riding a horse, wearing high boots and holding two lotuses in his two hands. He is accompanied by his attendants Dandi and Pingala. This relief made me feel my pilgrimage to this temple was complete.
I could spot Krishna playing flute in at least two places. There are Vishnu images. Then there are images that could be either different Adityas or different Bhairavas. It was difficult to judge given their state.
It is not possible to go around the 84 temples on the periphery wall of the temple. All you can do is admire their pillars and frames remaining, in local ash grey stone. There are two smaller temples behind the main temples, and 2 in its front making me think if it is was a Panchayatan temple. I am still trying to find it out.
Visiting Martand Sun Temple
Martand Sun temple is in the village of Mattan in Anantnag district, very close to the Anantnag city of Kashmir valley. It took me a little more than an hour to reach from Srinagar. On the way you ass by Pampore famous for Saffron with shops selling saffron and saffron products lining the road. Then you pass by the cricket bat making units, sometimes an odd Apple orchid.
The temple compound was full of school children who were here for picnic. Only a few families were there to visit the temple. Once we started deciphering the sculptures, they told me that there are similar temples in Rajouri region as well.
Locally, the temple is called Pandava Lari, as they believe that only Pandavas could have erected such magnificent structures. It can not be human work. I wondered how much we have degraded in thought and action from our ancestors that we can not believe we are the descendants of those who built these.
Surya Temple at Matan
Just a few kms from the ancient Martand Temple is a small practicing temple of Martand, located right next to a huge spring fed pond. The pond is the biggest element here.
The Sun temple has a fairly new Murti of Surya in white marble. He is seen riding his seven horses. Another temple has a Murti with 12 Adityas riding a horse. Which one is original or older is difficult to say. As the priest said, the Sthan or the place is important. It is the land of Kashyap and Adityas as his sons.
The temple complex has temples dedicated to Durga Ma, Radha Krishna and Rishi Kashyap Murtis. It is serene to stand next to the pond and see a practicing temple in the valley. I could only imagine the Surya Mantras being chanted here.
Travel Tips
You can visit Matrand Sun Temple from either Srinagar or Anantnag. The road is good. Its about 70 kms from Srinagar and less than 10 from Anantnag.
You can easily spend 2 hours at the temple, walking around and admiring sculptures.
Since it is under ASI, I assume it is open from Sunrise to Sunset.
There were no tickets when I visited, either for visitors or for cameras.
There are no tourist facilities or tour guides. Read up before you go.
Carry your own food and water.
