Creamy, foamy goodness poured over the rim of the glass. The Kilkenny head — as luscious as it gets: thick and frothy, the quintessential representation of why Ireland is known for its beer just as much as its rugged natural beauty and rich heritage.
There’s just something undeniably iconic about an Irish pour. That’s why I’d come to the country of my heritage — to understand what sets its brews, and natural beauty, apart from other top outdoor and culinary travel destinations. Something about that Irish brew just hits different.
And now, here I was, sipping (more damn-well gulping) the best beer of my life: Kilkenny Cream Ale. More on that in a second.
Irish Beer: Beyond Guinness
During my trip, between pints, the outdoors called, offering surfing along the wild Atlantic’s Benone Strand, hiking in the craggy highlands of Donegal, and kayaking through crystal-clear waters of Lough Swilly. However, no mistaking it: I was here to get sippin’.
As an American, Guinness has always been my go-to Irish export. But I didn’t come all the way to Ireland just to drink Guinness. No, I was on a mission to discover the other gems that Irish folks enjoy at their favorite local pubs.
Beyond the iconic black stuff, there’s a whole world of Irish beer waiting to be explored, from Murphy’s and Smithwick’s to Harp and Beamish. These are the “second-tier” brews; not quite craft beer but also not in the ubiquitous international mainstream.
They’re the everyman’s beers, the ones that average Irish citizens turn to when they’re not reaching for a pint of the legendary black stuff.
Top ‘Second-Tier’ Beers in Ireland
While Guinness reigns supreme, a second tier of widely beloved brews tells the story of what Ireland drinks when it’s not pouring a Guinness. These aren’t your typical microbrews, nor do they have the powerhouse reputation of the big stout. They’re simply the reliable, everyday pints people enjoy across Ireland.
After countless sips, pours, and pubs, here are my top picks of Ireland’s best beers outside of the iconic black stuff:
Murphy’s Irish Stout
- Taste: Smoother and slightly sweeter than Guinness, with a rich chocolate and caramel undertone.
- Texture: Light and creamy, with a softness that makes it approachable even for those new to stouts.
- Notable Quality: Brewed in Cork, Murphy’s has a loyal following, offering a mellow stout experience that’s perfect for relaxed pub nights.
Smithwick’s Red Ale
- Taste: Deeply malty with caramel notes and a hint of toasted grain, giving it a warm, rounded flavor.
- Appearance: A classic red ale with a beautiful amber-red hue and a slight haze.
- Special Traits: Known as Ireland’s oldest ale, Smithwick’s has been a staple since 1710, bringing history and character to every pint.
Harp Lager
- Taste: Crisp, clean, and refreshing, with a light malt sweetness balanced by a subtle hop bitterness.
- Appearance: A pale golden lager with a clear, bright pour and a light, foamy head.
- Distinctive Feature: Brewed in Dundalk, Harp is one of Ireland’s go-to lagers, offering a refreshing option for those who want a lighter, more sessionable beer.
Kilkenny Cream Ale
- Taste: Smooth and creamy with a subtle maltiness, Kilkenny offers a rich, velvety texture that’s as satisfying as it is drinkable.
- Appearance: Topped with a dense, creamy head, this nitro-infused ale has a warm amber hue.
- Unique Feature: Kilkenny is the perfect fusion of Smithwick’s and Guinness, creating a nitro ale that’s uniquely Irish.
Beamish Irish Stout
- Taste: Bold and coffee-forward, Beamish delivers a rich, roasted flavor with a touch of bitterness — ideal for those who love a darker, heartier stout.
- Texture: Smooth and slightly heavier than Murphy’s, giving it a satisfying mouthfeel that lingers.
- Character: Brewed in Cork, Beamish is known for its intensity, making it a go-to choice for stout enthusiasts seeking that deep, coffee-like taste.
O’Hara’s Irish Red
- Taste: Well-balanced with malty sweetness and a touch of hop bitterness, giving it a complex yet approachable profile.
- Appearance: A deep ruby-red ale with a rich, creamy head.
- Notable Qualities: Known for its balanced flavor and smooth finish, O’Hara’s Irish Red is a fantastic choice for those who appreciate a traditional Irish ale with a modern twist.
All Roads Lead Back to Guinness (and Heineken)
Despite my best efforts to stray from Guinness, it was nearly impossible to avoid its undeniable presence in Ireland. Brewed at St. James’s Gate in Dublin since 1759, Guinness is woven into the fabric of Irish culture.
But after a few miles on the road, I realized there was another big name creeping into the scene — Heineken. Based in the Netherlands but with a brewery in Cork, Heineken Ireland produces a range of beers, including Murphy’s Stout.
After some time exploring Northern Ireland, I made my way back to Dublin, hoping to get a unique perspective on Guinness itself. And while the famed St. James’s Gate tour is a must for tourists, the real hidden gem for beer lovers is the Guinness Open Gate Brewery.
Here, a rotating selection of experimental brews is served in a cozy taproom, making it a playground for anyone interested in discovering what else Guinness has to offer.
I met with Steven Codd, a bartender at the Open Gate Brewery, who shared some of his expertise on what makes a perfect pint. According to him, finding the best Guinness isn’t just about the pour; it’s about the pub’s rhythm.
“A busy pub will serve a good pint,” he told me between pours, “because the beer isn’t lost in the line for too long. If it’s busy, you get the perfect amount of nitrogen in every pint.”
Guinness’s popularity, Codd continued, comes down to its heritage. “It’s been brewed here since 1759. It’s an everyman’s drink.” And when poured right, it’s unmistakable. At the Open Gate, pints are pumped fresh from the brewery next door, creating the freshest Guinness experience you’ll ever find.
According to Codd, to properly drink a pint of stout, it’s essential to gulp, not sip. “The right way to drink it?” he explained. “Once it goes black, once it settles — don’t sip, give it a big gulp — because you want to get to the beer underneath the head. People who say they don’t like Guinness they’re sipping the white head, which is the bitter part. Big gulps, get the nice tasty beer that’s underneath.”
He was literally the expert, pouring the freshest Guinness in the world. There was a pipe sending the stout directly from the brewery across the street to Open Gate — like alcohol Willy Wonka wonderland. So, for the sake of “research,” I happily obliged, and gulped away.
The Holy Grail of Nitro
After a round of pints at the Open Gate — now a wee bit tipsy — Codd sent me on a mission: find Kilkenny. It’s brewed by Guinness, but it’s surprisingly scarce to find on tap, even in Ireland.
“Go to O’Regan’s Pub,” he said, showing me the coordinates. “Try a pint of Kilkenny. It’s one of the best beers I’ve ever had. Once you try it, you’ll know what I mean. It’s creamy, full of flavor, and unlike anything else.”
Kilkenny is a unique blend of Smithwick’s and Guinness — a creamy, nitro-infused ale with a taste that borders on ethereal. At first sip, it’s a revelation, with a smoothness and richness that rivals even the best stouts. For those looking to explore Irish beer, Kilkenny is essential. At least that’s how I felt.
On my windy walk to O’Regan’s, I stumbled upon the oldest gate in Ireland, dating back to the Viking period. Then, I accidentally found myself at St. Patrick’s Cathedral. The St. Patrick. Oops. The city — and darn well the whole country — is overflowing with history like an overpoured glass of frothy brew.
The Best (Irish) Beer Ever: Kilkenny Cream Ale
I finally found myself at O’Regan’s, a cozy, down-home pub in the heart of Dublin. After a long day of walking through the city’s winding streets and bustling lanes, my feet were sore, and the Irish drizzle had just started to settle in, leaving me craving warmth, a little comfort — and, of course, the perfect pint.
I had journeyed through Ireland’s beers, tasting the best, from the famous Guinness to everyman brews like Murphy’s, Beamish, and many others. But I knew my quest wouldn’t be complete until I tried Kilkenny.
The bartender greeted me with a knowing smile as I ordered, and I could tell he was used to seeing beer pilgrims like me seeking out the legendary nitro ale. As he poured, I watched the beer settle beneath a head so thick and creamy, it looked almost like a cloud had landed in my glass.
The pour was mesmerizing, with a cascading effect that rolled down the glass like velvet. Far from the inky blackness of a typical stout, Kilkenny’s deep amber-red color caught the low afternoon light of the pub, giving it a rich, inviting glow. The thick head sat perfectly on top, promising that first sip (or gulp) would be worth every step of the journey.
I lifted the glass, inhaling the nutty, roasted aroma mixed with a subtle sweetness, and took a long pull. It was an experience, not just a drink. The texture was smooth and luxurious, the kind of creamy richness that lingers on the tongue and somehow feels both heavy and light. It was indulgent yet refreshing — a creamy, nutty masterpiece that stood as a true tribute to the skill and soul of Irish brewing.
Sitting there in O’Regan’s, surrounded by the warmth of conversation, I felt I’d found the perfect Irish beer. Kilkenny was the pinnacle of everything I had tried throughout Ireland. It had the creaminess of a stout, the malt depth of a red ale, and the satisfying finish of a perfectly poured Guinness.
Kilkenny was, without a doubt, the holy grail — a pint that embodied the spirit, warmth, and craftsmanship of Ireland. And while my Irish beer journey may have led me to many incredible brews, Kilkenny Cream Ale was the only one that made me truly feel like I’d finally found home.
