One fine Sunday morning 5 of us gathered at the edge of Dharamrayaswamy temple street in Nagarathpete to explore the old temples of Bangalore. Located right in the heart of the city, amidst busy markets these temples are the open-air history books telling is the story of the city and the communities that form the city.
Any big city is an amalgamation of migrants coming from different directions and settling down. With them they brin their deities, their customs, rituals, festivals, language and culture. What they adopt from their new homeland and what they carry forward from their old homes is a curious combination that no one can predict. However, over time this becomes the fabric of the land, lending its own identity to the new character of the city.
On this temple trail, besides the variety of temples I also saw this cultural amalgamation that is so beautifully co-existing in multiple layers. So, come walk with me virtually.
Dharamarayaswamy Temple / Nagarathpete Street Temples
Gangadhareshwara Temple – At the edge of Dharamrayaswami Temple Road is this small temple in white. You can Shiva Parvati and Ganapati sitting on top as a family with Nandi in front. Family is surrounded by two lions and the gateway has two elephants carved on it.
Temple was closed but we could get in and go around the temple. During the walk I learnt that many such small temples mostly remain closed. Priests come and do puja and then the temple is closed. A case of not many devotees visiting the temples.
This temple has a huge collection of votive Naga figures in its compound.
Anjaneya Swami Temple – Bang opposite the above temple is this very small Anjaneya or Hanuman temple. This was the first temple I prayed at as I waited for my walking companions to come. A beautiful vigraha of Hanuman ji and a small walking path to do the Pradakshina.
Dharamrayaswami Temple in Nagarathpete
This is the most popular and unique temple on this trail. It is dedicated to Dharmaraja or Yuddhisthir of Mahabharata, his brothers and their wife Draupadi. This is the venue for famous Karaga festival of Thigala community that hails originally from Tamil region and are engaging in gardening activities.
The story goes that once Adi Shakti as Draupadi created an army of Veerkumaras to annihilate an Asura. After this she was returning to her abode and when Veer Kumaras requested her to stay back on earth. She promised to return every Chaitra Purnima and Karaga celebrates that annual return of Draupadi. The community is also known as Vahani Kula or the descendants of Agni. Remember Draupadi too was born from Agni of a Yagna Kunda.
The temple is large and colorful. I found a unique stambha or a pillar in front of the Devi temple on right. It has faces carved on its top, which is unusual. Close to it are some herostones indicating a Kshatriya lineage of the temple.
Nagareshwar Swami and Annapurna Temple
Little ahead of Dharamraya Temple on the same side is this beautiful temple dedicated to Shiva as Nagareshwar Swami. The area is called Nagarathpete so the name can come from there. Or, the main temple of the city is called Nagareshwar Swami temple meaning the lord of the city. Even Begur has a temple by the same name.
Devi here is in the Swaroop of Annapurna. You can see her beautiful Murti holding a ladle and a pot in her hands. I also saw the Sri Chakras being worshipped with crimson Kumkum.
Vrishabha or Nandi is outside in his mandapa that is unfortunately coved in a way that he looks caged.
Kama Dahan Festival – When we visited the Rati Manmath images were displayed at the temple. They were not just vibrant but almost life like. It felt the real humans are sitting there. They were a part of the festival that celebrates the burning down of Kama or Kamdev by Shiva that happened around Holi time.
Chamundeshwari Temple – Close by is the small temple dedicated to Mahishasurmardini as Chamundeshwari. It was closed when we visited so we did our Naman from outside only.
Avenue Rode Temples
We turned right towards Avenue Road and saw some temples there. On the way, we saw many small temples that look like a shop from a distance but you see the temple pillar jetting out and a small Murti in distance. Usually surrounded by busy shops it is easy to miss these temples unless you are walking early morning like we did.
Bisilu Maramma Temple
This small temple in a shop like space has three stone Murtis. To me they look like Ekmukh lingas or the Shivalingas with one face carved. However, the people cleaning the temple insisted this is Maramma – who is a form of Sheetala Mata. She is worshipped to prevent diseases like chicken pox and other epidemic forming diseases.
Balaji Temple – Almost opposite Bisilu Maramma temple is this beautiful and small temple dedicated to Balaji temple. This temple must have been in stone, but now you can see glimpses of it through some of the sculptures that have been left as such in an otherwise ceramic tiles and granite covered walls.
Opposite Balaji temple is a newly renovated Sri Ram Temple.
Ranganathaswamy Temple – This is an old and beautiful temple dedicated to Vishnu as Ranganatha. Besides the beautiful Murtis – both Moola Murti and Utsava Murtis, we saw a beautiful sculpture of a Matsya or fish on one of the walls. I wondered, does it indicate Matsya avatar of Vishnu but it looked like a perfect fish. I was told this indicates the presence of portable water underneath.
Possibly there was a temple tank here that has been lost to urbanization.
This is a colorful temple with large Utsava Murtis and many Vijayanagara style pillars in the mandapa. A good photo stop to click pictures.
Balepete Temples
From here we turned towards Balepete – that literally means the bangles market. On the way we saw Bale Garudi – a traditional wrestling Akhada, it too was closed.
Srinivasa Temple – This Vishnu temple was built in 1913 by the Kantirava Wadiyar, the then Maharaja of Mysore as an orphanage to give shelter to Hindu orphans.
Sugreeva Venkateshwara Swamy Temple
This 400-year-old temple’s uniqueness is a giant Murti of Sugreeva and another one of Bali. Now, it is not often that we find temples dedicated to the Vanara brothers although we must remember Karnataka is indeed their Kishkindha. Ther
The main temple is dedicated to Vishnu as Venkateshwara Swamy and Mahalakshmi. The temple also has lovely paintings. I loved the one depicting the killing of Mahishasura through the various forms he took during the fight.
Deity is the Kuladevata of Veerkshatriyas of Melusharkara vamsha who were Uppars or Salt makers.
Aai Mata Temple of Sivri Samaj of Rajasthan
In one of the narrow lanes I saw a temple literally emerging out of the neighboring homes in pure white marble. I gut feel was that it is a Jain temple but what I was sure was that it is temple that belongs to Rajasthan. Sure enough it did, but it is dedicated to Aai Mata, Kuldevi of Sivri clan. Her presence indicates that the areas has her followers surrounding her.
This temple would instantly port you to Rajasthan with finely carved white marble all around. Even the Murtis are made in white marble that is found in abundance in Rajasthan.
Kashi Vishwanath Temple
Kashi Vishwanath can be found everywhere on the landscape of India. How can Bangalore be away from him! This fairly large temple has beautiful stone sculptures of various Devi Devatas. What I remember the most is Mahishasurmardini that you see when you go around the garbhagriha to do the parikrama.
In the same complex is Kedarnath temple. The linga is not like Kedarnath but nonetheless it depicts the energy of Kedarnath. There is a lovely sculpture of Adi Shankaracharya in this temple.
Prasanna Krishnaswamy Temple
Located close to Majestic Metro station in Tulasithotam area, this was the last temple we visited on this walk. It is probably the biggest temple as well with a lovely temple tank in typical red and white color. Established in 1844 CE, also known as Kalyanpuri, this temple was the private temple during the Mysore Maharaja reign.
It has Murtis of Krishna, Rukmini and Andal as the main deities.
Food at Udupi Sri Krishna Bhavan
While you are in Balepete, do not miss eating out at Udupi Sri Krishna Bhavan which was established way back in 1926 CE and still exudes an old-world charm. The south canara food is delicious to say the least.
Walking Tips
It took us almost 3.5 hours to comfortable walk around and visit the temples from Nagarathpete to Balepete.
Early morning the streets are empty and temples peaceful.
By 10 AM the markets start opening and it becomes difficult to walk the streets.
There are enough eateries available to eat or have Chai, but try the traditional darshinis for the complete feel of the place.
Metro is the best way to travel to this area. Parking vehicles can be a big issue.
