Virtually everywhere you set foot in this region that spans northwestern Washington state, water plays a starring role in what you see.
From the jagged shoreline of both the mainland and the islands, you can nearly always glimpse the rippling waters of the Salish Sea, the collective name given to the interconnected bodies of water also commonly referred to as Puget Sound, the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Canada’s Georgia Strait since 2008.
As you curve around the western side of the Olympic Peninsula, home to stunning Olympic National Park, you’ll encounter miles of driftwood-strewn beaches lapped by the powerful waves of the Pacific Ocean and punctuated by dramatic sea stacks, some of them rising more than 50 feet above the sea.
Even in the interior, temperate rainforests and — rising to elevations of nearly 8,000 feet above sea level — the snowcapped peaks of the Olympic Mountains are crisscrossed by rushing streams and dotted with gurgling hot springs and pristine lakes.
A road trip through this bewitching region offers opportunities for viewing incredible natural scenery, from the beaches to the mountains, as well as eye-popping wildlife. At any time of year, you might spy hulking orcas, along with migratory humpback and gray whales seasonally, from shore or a ferry boat — or, better yet, on a cruise devoted to observing these graceful giants.
Also keep an eye out for sea otters, Steller sea lions, harbor and elephant seals, Dall’s porpoises and Pacific white-sided dolphins, along with an amazingly diverse mix of both resident and migratory birdlife. Bald eagles, great blue herons, least sandpipers, American wigeons and double-crested cormorants are common sightings.
Related: The best US national parks you should visit at least once (or twice)
This is an ideal road trip for recreation seekers. You’ll discover fantastic hiking trails virtually right outside your door in even the area’s largest cities, plus scenic — if sometimes steep — terrain that’s ideal for both leisurely and rigorous bike rides. Beachcombing and tidepooling are engaging activities for every age and fitness level. Not to mention, this is a boater’s paradise. You can rent kayaks and stand-up paddleboards. book guided paddles throughout western Washington or set out on guided fishing and sightseeing cruises and sailing adventures.
The region also abounds with sophisticated restaurants and cafes — many of them focused on locally harvested and raised seafood, meats and produce — and discerning shops and galleries stocked with crafts and artwork that reflects the Pacific Northwest’s enthusiastic embrace of maker culture.
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Planning advice
Timing
Although some communities have walkable downtowns, you’ll need a car to explore this swath of sometimes very secluded areas, especially within Olympic National Park.
Not including time spent in the gateway city of Seattle, give yourself at least six days to experience this itinerary. That gives you enough time to spend three nights in both the San Juan Islands and on the Olympic Peninsula. If you can budget up to 10 days, even better.
Crossing the US-Canada border
Bear in mind that if you’re planning to combine this adventure with a trip to Canada’s Vancouver Island, every traveler in your party will need a passport.
Car rental agencies in Washington state and British Columbia typically allow renters to drive vehicles across the border, but always confirm this policy in advance and let the agency know about your plans to spend time in both countries when you pick up your rental car.
Be aware of U.S. and Canadian customs limits when taking the ferry or driving across international borders. For example, you may be responsible for paying duties on wine or liquor that you’ve purchased during your trip.
Entry fees and ferry reservations
The entry fee for Olympic National Park is $30 per private vehicle and is valid for seven days. It can get pricey traveling with your car on the region’s ferries.
Approximate one-way fares for standard-size vehicles (including a driver and one passenger) during the summer high season are $94 from Anacortes to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island and $100 from Port Angeles, Washington, to Victoria, British Columbia.
Although reservations aren’t required, if you’re taking a car on any of these ferry routes, it’s a good idea to reserve your crossing in advance (at least several days ahead, if you can, during the summer high season).
Start and endpoints
Including time spent on the ferry, it’s only a few hours’ drive from Seattle to reach the islands and towns on this itinerary. If you rent a car, however, you’ll have to return your vehicle to the same country that you picked it up. To save on exorbitant one-way surcharges, it’s best to return your car to the same location from which you rented it.
This road trip begins in the San Juan Islands, although you could easily drive it in reverse. Either way, it makes the most sense to fly into Seattle and rent a car there, then drive 90 minutes north to Anacortes, where you catch the ferry to the San Juan Islands.
Best time to visit the Olympic Peninsula
From mid-September through mid-June, rain and mist frequently cast an eerie — and sometimes downright soggy — aura upon the region. But the areas due east and north of the high peaks — Sequim and the San Juan Islands — lie in the so-called banana belt and often receive sunshine and warmer temperatures when the rest of the Pacific Northwest feels waterlogged.
Naturally, the drier summer months are when most visitors flock here. If you’re seeking blue skies, driving this itinerary during these months is your best bet. But keep in mind that the high season can bring considerable crowds — hotels charge significantly more at this time, and especially on weekends and holidays, rooms often fill up well in advance.
For the best selection of accommodations during the high season, try to book at least three months in advance or even further ahead if you’re looking to stay in one of the lodges at Olympic National Park.
Related: Booking the perfect Pacific Northwest summer vacation with points and miles
Ferry travel can also require more planning and patience in summer. Fares are generally higher during the busy months, and the wait for boarding ferries can be long, especially on Fridays and Sundays. To avoid long lines, try to reserve your ferry trips online and well in advance in high season.
There are plenty of great reasons to make this journey from fall through spring, even in the middle of winter. Fewer crowds and lower prices make for an easier and less costly trip, and in this part of the world, even inclement weather has its charms.
Spectacular winter storms can be a lot of fun to watch from a cozy hotel room, and from winter through spring, the area’s copious waterfalls look especially dramatic as they swell with snowmelt and excess rainfall.
The surrounding rainforests radiate with misty ferns and dripping cedar, hemlock and spruce — there’s no better time for contemplative forest bathing. Meanwhile, snow sports enthusiasts can ascend to Hurricane Ridge in Olympic National Park to test their skiing, snowboarding and snowshoeing skills.
Whatever time you choose to visit this part of the world, try not to let rainy skies prevent you from venturing out on a hike. As the saying goes in the Pacific Northwest, there’s no bad weather, only bad gear.
San Juan Islands, Washington
This temperate, laid-back archipelago in the Salish Sea is composed of around 175 islands and lies less than 10 miles offshore from both the Washington mainland and the southeastern tip of British Columbia’s Vancouver Island.
Traveling by car, you can reach these islands by way of the Washington State Ferries system, with boats departing from the picturesque fishing town of Anacortes, a 90-minute drive north of Seattle; until 2020, ferries also connected the islands with Victoria, British Columbia, but this service has been discontinued indefinitely.
Lopez Island
This itinerary focuses on the two most popular islands: San Juan (which is also the most populous) and Orcas (which is the largest in the area). Also serviced by Washington State Ferries, Lopez Island is a bit smaller and more rural with fewer services, but it’s incredibly peaceful and ideal for seekers of solitude and those who wish to commune with nature — there are several enchanting beaches and miles of hiking trails.
Just keep in mind that Lopez has only a few small inns (along with a number of Airbnbs), and the island’s accommodations tend to fill up early during the peak summer season. Even if you don’t spend the night, it’s worth venturing over to Lopez for at least an afternoon and perhaps enjoying an early dinner at one of the handful of excellent restaurants — Ursa Minor and Haven Kitchen & Bar are both terrific.
This relatively flat island is also ideal for a leisurely bike ride, so you could leave your car back on whichever island you’re coming from and rent a bike — one of the rental shops on the island, Edenwild Island Adventures, even issues bikes at the ferry terminal.
San Juan Island
With around 8,700 full-time residents, San Juan Island stands out for its bustling main village, which is where the ferry terminal is located. It’s a walkable, salty-aired downtown filled with lively shops, romantic inns, fine art galleries and a mix of exceptional restaurants. Be sure to check out the small but informative Whale Museum, which provides a helpful overview of these enormous creatures that inhabit the surrounding waters.
You can drive a near circuit around San Juan Island in a little over an hour, but try to set aside a full day in order to see the key attractions. First head south to visit the American Camp section of San Juan Island National Historical Park, which chronicles an 1859 boundary dispute between the U.S. and Great Britain, both of which had laid claim to the San Juan archipelago. No human lives were lost during the confrontation, although a pig belonging to a British resident was killed.
American Camp is laced with pretty hiking trails that lead past the remains of old forts and down to some pebbly beaches. From here, continue up the western shore of the island, which is famous for watching orca whales — Lime Kiln Point State Park, with its oft-photographed 1919 lighthouse, offers some of the best views. Worth a stop along this route are Pelindaba Lavender Farm (order a scoop of lavender ice cream) and Krystal Acres alpaca farm.
At the north end of the island, you can visit the English Camp district of San Juan Island National Historical Park, which is more compact than its American counterpart and contains barracks, a commissary and other outbuildings.
Then, slip over to Roche Harbor, stopping to stroll among the 20 acres of large-scale installations at San Juan Islands Sculpture Park & Nature Preserve before grabbing a bite to eat at historic Roche Harbor Resort. From here it’s a relaxing 10-mile drive back to town along the northeastern side of the island.
Related: 5 national parks to visit before your kids leave the house
Orcas Island
With its dramatically hilly landscape and inlet-dotted shoreline, butterfly-shaped Orcas Island is a favorite of hikers and kayakers.
The ferry terminal is on the southwestern side of the island, about a 20-minute drive through breathtakingly beautiful meadows to the Orcas’s main village, Eastsound, which is home to several intriguing galleries and shops, a highlight being Girl Meets Dirt, with its house-made gourmet goods and gifts.
In town, you can savor freshly caught seafood at the romantic Inn at Ship Bay and sip on craft cocktails and savor bar snacks at The Barnacle. A highlight for trekkers is hiking up to the 2,409-foot-tall summit of Mount Constitution at Moran State Park, which is on the eastern of the island’s two lobes and is also home to a few tranquil lakes, one of which offers boat rentals.
On the drive from Eastsound to the park, stop to check out the outstanding locally produced paintings, woodwork, glassware and jewelry at Orcas Island Artworks. The adjacent Lascaux Cafe serves delicious breakfast and lunch fare. Farther east, Doe Bay Cafe is another enchanting spot for a meal and perhaps spying sea otters and sea lions swimming offshore.
Also set aside time to drive around the western lobe of the island, which is home to one of the oldest and most impressive ceramics galleries in the Pacific Northwest, Orcas Island Pottery. More great hiking awaits at Turtleback Mountain Preserve, where the moderately challenging trek up to Raven Ridge and Turtlehead Point rewards hikers with splendid vistas toward Canada’s Gulf Islands.
Afterward, continue to colorful Deer Harbor for delicious barbecue at Matthew’s Smokehouse or pizza overlooking the marina on the wooden deck at Island Pie.
Where to stay
If you do wish to spend a night or two on Lopez Island, a wonderful, centrally located choice is The Edenwild Boutique Hotel (rates start at $230), which is in the heart of Lopez Village and contains nine simply but cheerfully furnished rooms, many of which look out at the surrounding colorful gardens. Note that rates fluctuate greatly here between winter and summer.
San Juan Island offers the greatest number of lodging options in the archipelago, with a number of spots right in the lively main village, steps from the ferry terminal. Among these closer-in properties, Friday Harbor House (rates start at $279) earns rave reviews for its sun-filled, smartly designed rooms with huge windows overlooking the boat- and ferry-filled waterfront. All of the rooms have gas fireplaces and jetted tubs, and the acclaimed Restaurant at Friday Harbor House is one of the island’s leading venues for farm- and sea-to-table dining.
On the northwest side of the island, Snug Harbor Resort (rates start at $299) comprises nearly 20 sleek glass-and-wood modern cottages with full kitchens, decks and gas grills overlooking a sheltered bay. Guests have complimentary use of kayaks, paddleboards, canoes and bikes, and there’s a cute coffeehouse dispensing light breakfast fare.
At the very northern tip of San Juan Island, you’ll find the alluring Roche Harbor Resort (rates start at $269), which sprawls across the site of what was the West Coast’s largest lime quarry and plant from the 1880s through the 1950s (you can still view the abandoned lime kilns and other memorabilia from this colorful history). The 4,000-acre resort contains a wide range of accommodations, many of them sleeping six or more guests and outfitted with kitchens, making this a favorite for family vacations and extended stays. There’s plenty to keep you busy on-site, including a marina (that’s home to a whale watching and kayak tour outfitter), a pool, tennis and bocce courts, and a full-service spa, and there are four restaurants to choose from.
With a handy location on the water that’s just steps from Eastsound’s colorful galleries and eateries, the dapper Outlook Inn on Orcas Island (rates start at $296) offers 40 rooms with chic, unfussy decor and plush bedding. For a splurge, treat yourself to one of the stylish Water’s Edge Suites, which have balconies that are perched literally over the edge of Fishing Bay, as well as electric fireplaces and heated bathroom floors. Superb locally sourced brunches and dinners are served in the romantic New Leaf Cafe, which has a covered verandah that looks across the street toward the water.
On Orcas Island’s Cascade Bay, the imposing 1909 former estate of shipbuilding magnate Robert Moran has been transformed into Rosario Resort & Spa (rates start at $179), a hilly 40-acre waterfront tract offering both traditional hotel rooms and condo-style units with multiple bedrooms. Amenities include an exceptional fine-dining restaurant and cozy lounge, a soothing spa, a marina and three pools.
With one of the most peaceful and remote settings on the island, funky Doe Bay Resort & Retreat (rates start at $170) is a favorite of artists and free spirits. Nestled on a quiet bay, this 38-acre hillside retreat comprises several distinct room types, from no-frills (and no bath) rustic cabins to higher-end cabins with private baths and kitchens, as well as unique yurts and domes. A yoga studio, outdoor hot tubs and massage services are offered, and the wonderful cafe serves healthy breakfasts and lunches.
Whidbey Island to Port Angeles, Washington
After ferrying back to Anacortes, follow state Route 20 over the majestic 180-foot-tall bridge through Deception Pass State Park to Whidbey Island, a narrow 37-mile-long landmass with an irregular shoreline that curves through the heart of Puget Sound.
Once you pass the more densely populated U.S. Navy town of Oak Harbor, the island feels quainter and more agrarian. Stop for a ramble around Coupeville, with its colorfully painted ice cream parlors, art galleries and gift shops.
Walk out to the end of the wharf for a clear view of Penn Cove, which is famous for its sweet and fleshy mussels — they appear on menus all over North America. Excellent places in town to sample them include divey Toby’s Tavern and the more upscale Oystercatcher.
It’s a short drive south, beyond the picturesque beaches of Fort Ebey and Fort Casey state parks, to board a ferry for the picturesque half-hour ride to Port Townsend, one of the main gateways to the Olympic Peninsula.
Related: 6 best road trips for visiting national parks
Port Townsend
Established in 1851, this vertiginous town on the tip of the Quimper Peninsula abounds with stately red brick Victorian buildings that date back to the period when its founders had hoped it would grow into a major city connecting the Northern Pacific Railroad with the Strait of Juan de Fuca (and thus the entire Pacific Rim). These plans never materialized (the railroad stopped in Seattle and Tacoma), and so Port Townsend today has barely more than 10,000 residents, many of whom chose to live here for its splendid seaside setting, vibrant arts scene and unpretentious vibe.
As you stroll among downtown’s indie-spirited shops and cafes, stop by the Northwest Maritime Center, where you’ll often see craftspersons at work building boats; this airy contemporary building with a shop stocked with maritime gear and a cool little coffeehouse hosts the popular Wooden Boat Festival in September.
Then, make the short drive to 432-acre Fort Worden Historical State Park, whose regal late-19th-century military buildings appeared in the 1982 hit movie “An Officer and a Gentleman.” Some buildings are now available as overnight accommodations, and park attractions include the engaging Port Townsend Marine Science Center, as well as several hiking trails, one that leads out to the 1913 lighthouse at the tip of Point Wilson.
End your day sampling locally sourced and crafted drinks at Finnriver Farm & Cidery, which is surrounded by an 80-acre apple orchard on the south side of town. The restaurant serves first-rate gastropub fare.
Sequim
U.S. Route 101 continues across the northern Olympic Peninsula through the pretty farming town of Sequim, which is celebrated for its lavender farms (and its popular Sequim Lavender Fest in July).
For an enjoyable coastal adventure, pick up a to-go lunch at Pacific Pantry market or Salty Girls Seafood and head north to Cline Spit County Park for a picnic with views across the bay of narrow Dungeness Spit, part of a migratory bird refuge that curves 5.5 miles out around the coast. The bird-watching is best here during the spring and fall months, and from the rugged cliffs perched atop the Strait of San Juan de Fuca, you can soak up fantastic views of mountainous Vancouver Island, just 15 miles away.
West of Sequim’s picturesque downtown, stop by the Dungeness River Nature Center, a contemporary building framed by beautifully carved native woodworking installations and surrounded by gardens planted with flora indigenous to the surrounding Dungeness River Watershed. Behind the building, a walking-biking trail runs across a stately 730-foot-long iron former rail bridge decorated with more local artworks.
Port Angeles
Continue your drive west into the peninsula’s largest city, Port Angeles (population 20,200), a busy lumber and fishing town that’s also the headquarters for Olympic National Park.
Take a walk on the City Pier, stopping by the small Feiro Marine Life Center to visit the kid-friendly touch tanks, and browse downtown’s mostly old-school restaurants and retailers. Port Angeles is also where you’ll return after exploring the national park to catch the ferry to Canada.
Where to stay
In the heart of downtown Port Townsend, The Bishop Hotel (rates start at $235) occupies a handsome red brick building that dates back to 1890; it’s undergone a steady upgrade and update since new owners bought it a few years ago. Many of the spacious rooms have kitchenettes, and there’s a smart cafe specializing in Northwest wines, ciders and espresso drinks, as well as a fragrant garden and patio behind the building.
All four rooms in the brick-red, Queen Anne-style Old Consulate Inn (rates start at $185), which overlooks Port Townsend Bay, are individually — and gorgeously — appointed, and rates include a decadent gourmet breakfast, as well as homemade cookies and espresso, tea or cocoa in the afternoon.
Opened in 2020 by the Jamestown S’Kallam Tribe at the foot of Sequim Bay, 7 Cedars Hotel & Casino (rates start at $199) has some of the largest and most attractive rooms in the region and makes a nice base for visiting not only the northeastern sections of Olympic National Park but also downtown Sequim and even Port Townsend, just a half-hour away. The five-story property adjoins the tribe’s casino, but rooms are well insulated from the sounds of slot machines, and common spaces are hung with beautiful paintings and carvings from the Northwest Native Expressions gallery, just down the road. There’s also a restaurant and a deli market.
The stylish Olympic Lodge by Ayres (rates start at $169) is a short drive from downtown Port Angeles and the main Olympic National Park Visitor Center. The spacious rooms are decked with leather beds, sofas and armchairs, and amenities include a pool, a restaurant and a gracious lobby with a fireplace and massive floor-to-ceiling windows. Ask for a room that faces the golf course and hills behind the hotel.
Olympic National Park, Washington
Hurricane Ridge to Lake Crescent
From downtown Port Angeles, it’s just a five-minute drive inland to the Olympic National Park Visitor Center, an excellent place to snag maps and ask for advice about exploring this majestic 1,442-square-mile wilderness of snowy mountain peaks, mossy temperate rainforests and driftwood-laden beaches.
Former President Teddy Roosevelt designated Mount Olympus National Monument, the early version of today’s present national park, in 1909. It’s made up of two noncontiguous sections, including the main and much larger inland one, which contains the snowcapped mountains — including the highest, 7,980-foot Mount Olympus — that are visible throughout Puget Sound, from Seattle to Victoria. The second section is a narrow 73-mile-long stretch of breathtaking, undeveloped Pacific Ocean coastline.
The first area to explore as you approach the park from Port Angeles is Hurricane Ridge, which sits a mile high in elevation and is reached from the Olympic National Park Visitor Center by a winding 17-mile park road. It’s maintained year-round, but in winter you can only drive it Friday through Sunday (chains are required) when the recreation area at the top offers downhill skiing, snowboarding, tubing and snowshoeing.
From April through October, Hurricane Ridge is popular for picnicking and hiking among wildflower-carpeted meadows. A favorite trek is the 3.2-mile, round-trip hike up to Hurricane Hill, with its 360-degree view of the peninsula and surrounding waters.
Related: TPG’s favorite national parks: A month-by-month guide
Back in Port Angeles, continue west along U.S. Route 101, which runs counterclockwise around the peninsula, and stop by the inviting Lake Crescent Lodge, a 1916 jewel with a pine-paneled restaurant and giant windows overlooking the tranquil lake for which it’s named. You can rent a kayak or paddleboard for a spin along the shore, or go for a walk along one of the several nature trails fringing the lake.
If you have time — allow a few hours for this — detour south through an emerald river valley to the park’s Sol Duc Hot Springs area, where you can hike through groves of Douglas firs to the roaring cascades of photogenic Sol Duc Falls and soak in one of the three roughly 100-degree sulfuric springs.
Forks to Quinault
U.S. Route 101 meanders west from Lake Crescent and leaves the park boundary before turning south and passing through the historic lumber town of Forks, whose dewy green meadows and fern-fringed valleys are the setting of Stephenie Meyer’s “Twilight” series — an entire cottage industry has developed in town around these teen-adored novels.
Claiming to be the soggiest town in the lower 48, Forks receives more than 110 inches of rain annually, plus several dustings of snow. Although home to only a smattering of accommodations and casual restaurants, Forks is an excellent base for visiting the western side of Olympic National Park.
Worth a quick visit is the Forks Timber Museum, where memorabilia and vintage equipment tell the story of one of the Pacific Northwest’s most prominent industries.
From Forks, it’s just a 15-mile drive west on U.S. Route 110 to the Quileute tribal community of La Push, which offers access to stunning beaches. Stop for a salmon burger or a bowl of seafood chowder at the River’s Edge Restaurant, then go beachcombing across the Quillayute River on Rialto Beach, with its mammoth piles of driftwood and towering sea stacks (vertical rock columns that rise from the sea).
Speaking of dramatic rock formations, you may have seen photos of the incredible sea stacks at Shi-Shi Beach, which lie at the northwestern tip of the Olympic Peninsula. Although this is part of Olympic National Park, getting here from the main U.S. Route 101 corridor entails a full-day side trip. If you have the time, this is a tremendously rewarding adventure.
On the drive, you’ll pass through the Makah tribal community of Neah Bay, with its superb Makah Cultural & Research Center and the trailhead for the short but stunning hike to rugged Cape Flattery.
From Forks, the drive to the Shi-Shi Beach Trailhead is about 90 minutes each way, then it’s a 4-mile, round-trip hike to the beach and another 4 miles round trip to the iconic Point of the Arches sea stacks and tidal pools.
Back in Forks, follow U.S. Route 101 south to the turnoff road that leads nearly 20 miles to the parking area and visitor center for the Hoh Rain Forest, which has earned a reputation as the most serene spot on the continent. Indeed, about all you’ll hear as you amble along the forest’s iconic Hall of Mosses Trail is the occasional pine cone dropping from a lofty moss-draped limb. Old-growth maples, alders, hemlocks and spruce form a verdant canopy overhead. It’s truly a magical place.
Continue on U.S. Route 101 along a thrilling stretch of Pacific coastline. You can access the shore from several short trails located just off the highway, with Ruby Beach and Kalaloch Beach among the highlights. At the latter, consider breaking for lunch or dinner — or maybe just a dish of blackberry cobbler — at the Kalaloch Lodge’s cozy Creekside Restaurant.
The road continues south a short way to Queets and then cuts sharply inland and upland through the mountains and to one final enchanted park setting, Lake Quinault, where you can view what’s considered the “World’s Largest Sitka Spruce” and stop either for a dinner, an overnight stay or a stroll among the gardens at the handsome Lake Quinault Lodge. The placid 4-mile Quinault Loop Trail provides an easy and enjoyable way to view both the deep and dark pristine lake and the surrounding verdant rainforest.
From here, if you’re planning to continue your road trip across the Strait of Juan de Fuca to explore Vancouver Island, return to Port Angeles the way you came, via U.S. Route 101—it’s about a 2.5-hour drive without stops. Or, from Lake Quinault, you could return to Seattle by continuing south down U.S. Route 101 to Aberdeen, heading east on state Route 8, eventually rejoining U.S. Route 101 toward Olympia and then taking Interstate 5 north. This drive takes about three hours.
Where to stay
Inside Olympic National Park
Each of the four properties within sprawling Olympic National Park has its own distinct personality and setting, and the two best for road-tripping — as they’re all on or near U.S. Route 101 — are also arguably the prettiest.
The 1916 Lake Crescent Lodge (rates start at $210) is closest to Port Angeles and has some of the park’s most economical rooms (these have shared baths). It’s situated on the shore of the rippling lake it’s named for and offers both historic hotel rooms, newer motel rooms and rustic cabins. The dining room has tall windows overlooking the water and mountains, and canoe, kayak and stand-up paddleboard rentals are available.
Perched on a bluff on a stunning beach, Kalaloch Lodge (rates start at $340) was built in the ’50s and is less architecturally distinctive — but wow, the setting. Accommodations are in weathered-wood cabins along a coastal bluff, inside the unpretentious main lodge building and inside the motel-style Seacrest House.
The two other park properties, the Log Cabin Resort (rates start at $124), which is on the more secluded north shore of Lake Crescent, and the Sol Duc Hot Springs Resort (rates start at $334), located in an old-growth forest valley about a half-hour south of U.S. Route 101, are a bit more rustic but still have their own charms. The biggest draw of the latter is staying just steps from spring-fed thermal mineral pools.
Outside Olympic National Park
Located on the edge of the national park near Lake Crescent and about 10 miles west of Port Townsend, the quiet and economical Emerald Valley Inn (rates start at $99) offers a cottage and several motel rooms, all of them spotlessly maintained and cheerfully furnished. There are car- and tent-camping sites, too, and on-site Granny’s Cafe serves up hearty diner classics and homemade pies.
In the lush and rainy timber town of Forks, the romantic Miller Tree Inn Bed & Breakfast (rates start at $210) occupies a stately vintage farmhouse with eight individually appointed rooms. Rates include a generous breakfast. This is a great choice for exploring the western side of the national park, including Rialto and Ruby beaches and the Hoh Rain Forest.
With its glorious alpine waterfront setting and steep shingle roof, the 1920s Lake Quinault Lodge (rates start at $232) connects directly with trails into an old-growth forest and has an inviting lobby warmed by a huge fireplace. Although it lies technically outside the park boundary (but still within the surrounding Olympic National Forest), it has the unmistakable rustic grandeur and seclusion of a national park lodge.
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