I was studying Lalita Sahasranama and writing my own notes on it. That is when I came across Srinagar as the city of Rajarajeshwari Lalit Tripurasundari. I wondered if Srinagar in Kashmir is indeed that city. In my list of Cities Named After Devi, I remember mentioning Sharika Devi as the presiding deity of Srinagar.
I had the opportunity to talk about Hari Parbat Parikrama in Srinagar in my podcast. Sharika Devi temple is indeed on top of this Hari Parbat. I then learnt about the naturally formed Sri Chakra that is worshipped here. This is when I had the strong desire to go and visit the temple. Images and videos never satisfy me, I need to feel the energy of the place.
Devi decided to bestow her grace on me, and I was invited by the Jammu and Kashmir Tourism for a conclave in Srinagar. I decided to visit Sharika Devi as soon as I landed in Srinagar. It was late in the evening and I had to cross the whole city full of tourists and traffic jams. But I could not resist her pull and headed straight to the hill.
Visiting Sharika Ji in Srinagar
From the car park, I saw a stairway going up somewhere. An arch in saffron had a mantra of Devi, with more than half the letters fallen apart. I started climbing, almost running and panting. Then I saw the temple structure on my right. I naturally bowed down and started climbing again.
At the temple entrance was a CISF post and a hand painting on the wall said – Ma Sharikaye Namah. I entered the temple that looked more like a home, but soon I came out in the open corridor. There was temple on my left and the vast vistas of both the Himalayas and the city of Srinagar on the right. In an instant, I knew this is where the Devi Bhagwati overlooks her city from, while also being in sight with both her father Himalaya as well as her consort Shiva.
Chakreshwari
Another flight of stairs took me to the open temple Angan, where a huge Shila is covered in saffron vermillion. This is the Chakreshwari Sri Sharika Devi. I had to go close to the Shila to see a faint impression of the Sri Chakra. I was instantly lost in the lines and intersections. There is a detailed description of the Sri Chakra on the wall on the left, but that is something I understood intellectually. Here, I was in the field of a natural Sri Yantra, that has been worshipped for centuries at least.
Temple is just a roof above the Shila. Otherwise, it is pretty much an open temple. Probably, this is how most of our temples used to be. There are corridors with rooms in typical Kashmiri wooden style on either side of the temple, but they stay independent of the temple per se.
I sat down to chant and had tears in my eyes as I chanted. It was an intense experience and an experience that I was yearning for. It was the experience for which the whole trip manifested. I went around the Shila for parikrama. Looking at the Sri Chakra, I knew why the city is named Srinagar.
Learning About Temple
A little later I sat with the Pandit ji in the corridor who gave prasad. There were a few books of bhajans, some pictures of Sharika Bhagwati and a temple calendar or panchang. I asked him a few questions and he guided me to the President of the Temple Trust and his mother.
We had a long conversation with Ranjeet ji and his mother, over a cup of Kahwa. I heard the story of Sri Sharika Mata, her festivals and how she is at the core of Kashmir and Srinagar. He took me around and showed the Yagna Shala where the yagna is conducted during the annual festival of Devi.
As I sat resting my back on a wooden pillar, I could see both the Devi and the valley that she keeps an eye on. A saffron flag was fluttering with the wind as the sun was setting on the horizon.
Legends of Sharika Devi
Story goes that once the Kashmir valley was being harassed by the Asura Jalodbhava. Everyone was in distress in his rule. So, the people of Kashmir prayed to Devi to help them out of the situation. Devi took the shape of a small Maina bird, called Hari in Kashmiri, and dropped a pebble on the Asura.
The pebble grew and the asura was crushed under its weight. People were relieved of his cruelties. The pebble grew into the hill that is now called Hari Parbat, after the Devi. The Devi remains on this hill in the form of Sri Chakra on the rock.
In iconography, she is shown with 18 arms, holding all kinds of Ayudhas or weapons, with her one leg on top of her Vahana – a lion. In this form she looks like Durga.
Hari Naumi or Sharika Jayanti
Sharika Jayanti is celebrated on Hari Naumi or the 9th Tithi of Ashadh Shukla Paksha. It roughly falls in July. The festivities begin on the 7th day itself and last for three days.
During this time many Kashmiri families visit and pray at the temple. A yagna is performed and people pray for the well being of their families and the world in general.
An offering of sheep liver is made and a prasad of the same is distributed to the devotees. Yes, this means Bali is offered to her.
Hariparbat Parikrama
Hariparbat Parikrama is a short circumambulation that goes around the hill of Hariparbat. You can see a map of the parikrama in the temple premises. My guess is it should be 3-4 km in length.
I did visit the Ganesh temple which is also in the form of a natural rock at the foothill. This is the starting point of the parikrama that goes through many temples before it reaches the Sharika Devi Temple. It is a beautiful temple with the rock in the shape of Ganapati. Unfortunately, you will not be able to locate it, unless someone takes you there.
Although the parikrama can be done anytime, the annual Parikrama takes place on Kartik Shukla Navami. It falls nine days after Diwali. Recently, the parikrama has been restarted after many years due to disturbances in the valley.
There is Chandrakala Parikrama also performed that depends on the lunar tithi.
I hope to do this parikrama someday.
Please do visit this temple, along with other temples of Kashmir, when you visit the valley for your holiday. This keeps them alive and practicing.
Travel Tips
Sharika Ji Temple is located bang in the middle of the city. You may have to brave the traffic to reach the temple.
Temple is open from morning to evening, but timings may differ a bit with season.
You need to climb a few steps to reach. There is no other mode available in case you cannot climb the stairs.
It is a small temple and the time you want to spend there is up to you.
You can also visit other Devi temples like Kheer Bhawani near Srinagar.
