The Field Jacket
US Military
The field jacket’s journey into menswear began during World War II, the first version, the M-41, debuted in 1941 to replace the wool service coats used in World War I. Despite its practical intent, the M-41 had shortcomings. Its insulation was minimal, its protection against rain and wind was poor, and its olive drab color faded quickly, reducing its effectiveness as camouflage. Soldiers often regarded it as inadequate for combat, but its widespread use was driven more by necessity than its actual performance.
Marines in the Peleliu islands in 1944 National Archives
By 1943, the M-41 was replaced by the M-43, a significant improvement designed for the harsh European winters. It featured a longer, hip-length cut, added pockets, a detachable hood, and a waist drawstring, providing more versatility in cold weather. The M-43 set a new standard, but its successor, the M-50, compromised some of the practical features, making it less effective as a combat garment.
The turning point for the field jacket came with the introduction of the M-65 in 1965. Designed by Alpha Industries, the M-65 was crafted from a blend of nylon and cotton sateen (“NYCO”), providing superior weather resistance. This version retained the classic hip-length cut, olive green color (OG-107), and the utility-driven design that made the M-43 popular. However, the M-65 introduced some key innovations that set it apart. Most notably, it featured a built-in hood that could be stowed inside the collar with a zip closure, replacing the earlier detachable hood system. The jacket’s front zipper was covered by a snap-button storm flap, and Velcro replaced the traditional button cuffs for easier adjustment. These updates made the M-65 highly versatile, adapting to unpredictable weather and offering better protection in the varied climates of the Vietnam War.
The M-65 quickly became a staple in the U.S. military, serving through the Vietnam War and permeating civilian culture.
@primermagazine Fall jacket guide: the m65 field jacket
Over the decades, the M-65 has appeared in numerous colors and camouflage patterns, while its influence on outerwear remains evident in the design of modern field jackets.
