The Finest Climbing Skins of 2024-2025

How We Tested Climbing Skins

As backcountry addicts, we completely understand the varied demands of backcountry skiing. We also know that your boots are perhaps the most important piece of gear (other than your avy and safety gear) you’ll take with you. If they don’t fit or perform well, an epic pow day can turn into a terrible one pretty fast. 

We put in months and months of time in the best backcountry ski boots on the market so you don’t have to. Our recommendations take out the guesswork so you can get on the snow faster and with less effort.

Our Expert Testers

At 18, Ryan Kempfer moved from Wisconsin to Steamboat Springs, where the mountains — and skiing — captured his heart. Since then, the places he’s traveled — from Grand Teton to Great Sand Dunes National Park and many spots in between — have brought great adventures on skis, bikes, and by foot.

For over two decades, Ryan worked in the ski industry, first working his way up to a base services manager at a ski resort and then as a boot fitter and a ski tech in a backcountry-focused ski shop where he helped people find the perfect gear for their adventures.

Now, he works as a wildlife guide in Grand Teton and Yellowstone National Parks. But, when he’s not out guiding or writing about the latest outdoor gear, he’s out using it. He skis over 100 days yearly, mainly in the backcountry, so he knows what works and what doesn’t. And, he loves hucking off of rocks, dropping into steep couloirs, and pushing his limits by skiing hard.

GearJunkie editor Chris Kassar, a backcountry skier who first started on telemark gear over 20 years ago and reluctantly (but gratefully) transitioned to AT 4 years ago, also assisted in testing. She, however, is a bit more of a tentative skier who really loves the uphill part and appreciates powder days and mellow slopes. Having two wildly different perspectives and ski styles helps give our reviews a wide perspective sure to help skiers from beginners to experts. 

Our Testing Grounds & Process

We’ve put these climbing skins to the test by heading into the backcountry — a ton. We went uphill and down in every type of terrain and all snow (and ice) conditions that nature could throw our way. From skinning up mellow open glades to climbing steep couloirs, from skinning in feet of fresh powder to climbing up pure ice, from the Tetons to the Rockies, and everything in between, we gave it a go with these skins to get all the info you need to decide which ones will work best for you.

These climbing skins carried us through steep uphill dawn patrols at Monarch Mountain Resort and Snow King Mountain, long, all-day tours in the Tetons, remote hut trips in the Colorado Rockies, and up a few peak summit missions in the Sawatch Range.

While testing the best climbing skins, we considered grip, glide, packability, durability and more. We thought about what type of skier and conditions are best for each skin.

We pushed these skins (and will continue to do so over the next couple of seasons) to further evaluate their durability and their ability to weather wear and tear. We used them in a range of temperatures, from 20 below freezing in January to warm spring days in May and June.

Once you find the ideal climbing skin for your needs, be sure to consult our guides to the best backcountry ski boots, best backcountry ski bindings, and best backcountry skis to round out your setup.

Buyer’s Guide: How to Choose the Best Climbing Skins

Which skin you choose will depend on your priorities, the type of skiing you do, and the kind of terrain you tackle. It’s important to consider grip, glide, glue type, durability, packability, and value

Grip

You can ski uphill (also called skinning) because the tiny hairs of the skin (aka plush or carpet) grip the snow as you glide your ski across it. Grip varies based on the material type used and the fibers’ length. Skins are commonly made of nylon, mohair, or a blend of both in varying amounts.

Mohair has shorter fibers so it glides better and grips less. Nylon has longer fibers, so it grips better but glides less easily. Typically, skins that offer the best grip don’t glide as well. However, the compromise may be worth it if you often tackle steep or icy terrain.

How grippy your skins are will determine how you set your skin track. If you’re in steeper terrain, grip will help you determine how far you can go without carrying your skis while post-holing in a boot pack. Grip, along with glide, also determines your efficiency. Because if you keep backsliding, you’ll be less efficient. If grip is most important to you, choose a skin made of 100% nylon, like the Black Diamond Ascension Nylon skins.

Glide

Being able to cruise through mountains efficiently in winter is one of the most amazing parts of ski touring. To fully enjoy it, glide is important. As they say, “the quicker the glide, the more efficient the stride.” The material comprising the plush of the skin you choose, will change the glide.  More mohair means better glide. More nylon means less glide. Glide helps skin more efficiently on both flat and steep terrain.

Sliding your ski across the snow as you move forward (rather than lifting your feet as if you are walking) conserves critical energy on backcountry missions. Choose 100% mohair like the Contour Guide Pure for the smoothest glide.   

Choose a blend like the Pomoca Climb Pro S-Glide for a skin that falls in the middle of both grip and glide. No product nails them both perfectly, and so the search for the holy grail, a skin that delivers the ultimate balance between grip and glide continues.

Packability

As mentioned earlier, it is not only about the plush that you choose for your skin. The tip and tail attachments also play a role in how small your skins can pack down. A 100% nylon skin with riveted attachments will give you years of use and amazing grip, but it folds and rolls poorly.

Softer skins like a mohair/nylon blend will better roll or fold into a smaller package. However, even a blend like the G3 Alpinist + Glide with bulky attachments will not be extremely packable.

If packability is extremely important, consider a different type of skin. The most packable we tested are the Contour Guide Pure and the Contour Hybrid Mix. However, again this is in part due to the fact that Contour heat welds their tail attachments, which is a brilliant idea when it comes to packability, but not the most durable option.

Think of consistently pulling on a strap in cold weather and it will inevitably come off your skin.  And, we don’t know about you, but as backcountry skiers, durability always plays a bigger part than weight and packability because if your skins fail when you’re way out in the mountains, you’ll have a bigger problem than a couple extra ounces.  

Glue Type & Ability to Stick to Skis

An adhesive applied to the non-plush side of your skins make the skins stick to your skis. Some adhesives are glue-based and some are silicone-based. Glue-based adhesives will work better in a wider range of temperatures so they will stick to your skis when it’s frigid. They’re also more forgiving if there is a little ice or snow on your ski base when you put your skins on. (Note: you should always try to clean your skis as well as possible before putting skins on).

Our top four picks, the Contour Guide Prue, Pomoca Pro S-Glide, Black Diamond Ascensions and the G3 Alpinist + Glide are all glue-based for these reasons.  These are solid choices if you like to ski in cold temps, stormy conditions and fresh pow. (Duh! Who doesn’t want to ski in these conditions?)

Non-glue adhesives, like those in the Contour Hybrid Mix, are much more temperamental. In fact, not many skins on the market are made with non-glue adhesives, most likely because of their unreliability. They can fail in colder temperatures, leaving you stranded or, at the very least, frustrated.

Regardless of type, skin adhesive changes over time. Some skins become less sticky, while others develop little balls of gummy glue. As skins ages, it may also begin to leave glue behind on your skin.  Some of these changes involve time and use, but storage and treatment are also important.

Try to keep skins clean and away from debris like pine needles, dog hair, and dust that can build up on skins and impact the glue. Also, consider how skins impact your skis; multiple rips of glue-based skins will require a lot more ski maintenance (i.e., waxing) because glue pulls wax out of your skis, whereas a non-glue adhesive won’t do that.

Durability

Consider the material of the plush, the hardware used to connect the tip and tail to the ski, and the durability of the glue (see above). Nylon fibers offer ultimate durability, while mohair fibers are finer and lighter. And, therefore, more delicate and less durable. The thickness of plush can also vary from skin to skin. Those with thicker plush tend to be more durable and longer lasting than thinner plush.

If every ounce matters, you’re probably going to have a less durable skin. Black Diamond skins stand out because they use metal clips and a rivet to secure attachments at tip and tail. This makes skins like the BD Ascension Nylon much more durable than others who sew or weld with hot glue.

The more you pull your tail clip (i.e., multiple rips), the more likely it will come off when not riveted. We experienced this exact issue with the Contour Hybrid Mix, which is the least durable skin we reviewed overall.

Frequently Asked Questions

Before you attach your skins to your skis, wipe down your ski bases. Make sure they are completely free of snow, ice, and dirt. Apply your skins from tip to tail, ensuring that the tail doesn’t come in contact with anything, like snow. Make sure the skins stick evenly to the entire ski surface. Once completely attached to the base, press the skins down to make sure they stick well.

While skiing, keep an eye on your skins to make sure you don’t kick your tails off. Be sure no snow is getting under the skin (known as snow creep). A properly cut skin should minimize this problem. When you remove the skins at the top of your run, keep them as snow-free as possible.

Fold each skin glue-to-glue. Keep them as centered and lined up as possible so that no glue is exposed. Otherwise, it will collect lint, dog hair, or snow. Store them in your jacket, pocket, or pack while skiing down.

When you get home, with the skins still folded in half (glue to glue), drape them over a chair or hook. Allow to dry for a couple of hours at room temperature (away from any open heat source). If you’re going to use them the next day, leave them as they are.

If you’re putting your skins away for longer, let them dry. Pull them apart. Put the skin saver back in, and fold them back glue to glue with the skin saver now in between, creating a barrier between the glue. Roll them up and keep them stored at room temperature.

When choosing climbing skins, consider the balance between mohair and nylon. Mohair provides excellent glide in dry conditions but lacks durability. Nylon offers superior grip and durability in variable or wet snow. Blended skins, combining mohair and nylon, aim to offer a compromise between the two. It’s essential to prioritize your specific backcountry skiing needs and preferences when selecting the best material for climbing skins.

Measure the widest part of your skis, usually at the shovel (tip). The skins should be equal to or slightly wider than this measurement for full coverage and maximum traction. Most manufacturers offer skins in various widths, and many can be trimmed to fit the exact shape of your ski. Choose a width that covers the entire ski at its widest point and can be trimmed for a precise fit.