Unless you only ride off-road or race tracks, every motorcycle boot has a compromise. Walkability and comfort don’t mesh with maximum protection. But it’s possible to find footwear for riding that’s protective, relatively walkable, and doesn’t look outlandish. That trifecta is the bull’s-eye of this list. Beyond that focus, we wanted to find moto boots that nail comfort.
We skewed this list toward adventure (a.k.a. ADV) boots. With some overlap, we also considered city commutes with details like compatibility with pant cuffs, for those making quick trips to the grocery store.
Ultimately, don’t be tempted to ride in a pair of sneakers. We know if gear is uncomfortable or hard to use, it’s more likely to build up dust. So we found the motorcycle boots we truly love and hope you do, too.
To learn more about motorcycle boots and how to shop for the right pair check out our comprehensive buyers guide, FAQ, and comparison chart below. Otherwise, scroll through to see all of our recommendations.
The Best Motorcycle Boots of 2024
Best Overall Motorcycle Boot
-
Materials
Full-grain leather with T-DRY waterproof membrane; polyurethane armor -
Protection
CE Level 2 -
Weight
2.44 lbs. -
Best Use
ADV, daily rides
-
Waterproof membrane -
Rebuildable stitched-down sole -
Comfortable for walking -
Excellent buckle system
-
Not quite as protective as alternatives
Best Budget and Waterproof Motorcycle Boot
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Materials
Hypalon ripstop with Gore-Tex waterproof membrane, ripstop polyester; laminated armor frame -
Protection
CE Levels 1 and 2 -
Weight
1.58 lbs. -
Best Use
ADV, daily riding
-
Waterproof membrane -
Super lightweight -
Comfortable for walking -
Easy zip closure stays put
-
Not quite as protective as alternatives
Best Off-Road Motorcycle Boot
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Materials
Synthetic suede, polyamide and Teflon; PU armored with anti-hyperextension zones -
Protection
CE Level 2 -
Weight
3.94 lbs. -
Best Use
Off-road riding
-
Interlocking layers of armor and motion prevention -
Almost every part is replaceable -
Bomber, unsurpassed protection
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Tough to walk in or wear off the bike
Motorcycle Boots Comparison Chart
Scroll right to view all of the columns: Price, Materials, Protection, Weight, Best Use.
Motorcycle Boots | Price | Materials | Protection | Weight | Best Use |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
TCX Drifter | $370 | Full-grain leather with T-DRY waterproof membrane; polyurethane armor | CE Level 2 | 2.44 lbs | ADV, daily rides |
REV’IT! Everest GTX | $360 | Hypalon ripstop with Gore-Tex waterproof membrane, ripstop polyester; laminated armor frame | CE Levels 1 and 2 | 1.58 lbs | ADV, daily riding |
Alpinestars Corozal | $340 | Full-grain leather with Drystar waterproof-breathable membrane; TPU armor and steel shank at midsole | CE Level 2 | 2.84 lbs | ADV |
Danner Moto Wedge GTX | $480 | Full-grain leather with Gore-tex waterproof-breathable membrane; D30 armor and fiberglass shank at midsole | Not rated | 1.54 lbs | City riding |
SIDI Atojo SRS | $550 | Synthetic suede, polyamide and Teflon; PU armored with anti-hyperextension zones | CE Level 2 | 3.94 lbs | Off-road riding |
How We Tested Motorcycle Boots
For this motorcycle boots guide, we narrowed the focus to adventure (ADV) boots, commuter boots, and touring boots.
Broadly, our testing focus was versatility for terrain and conditions. We looked for commuter boots that provide enough sensation for continuous shifting through urban zones. For outsoles, their adhesion on wet pavement was key. We also looked for boots with exterior material that could handle the engine heat and protect our interior calf.
Function was king. We searched for boots that we could pull on and remove with relative ease. We also checked for strong buckles that stayed put, no rub points, and comfortable midsoles for walking across variable terrain.
While aesthetics are subjective, you won’t find loud colors or racing styles here. We aimed to find boots with a more timeless, everyday look.
There are compromises for all motorcycle boots. Fully waterproof boots tend to ride hotter. Heavily armored boots are also toasty. We cut out some options that didn’t meet our metrics and honed in on the motorcycle boots that would work for most riders most of the time.
Why You Should Trust Us
Our lead GearJunkie tester and reviewer for this guide, Michael Frank, evaluated the bulk of these boots over the course of a year. He rode a handful of different bikes on backwoods trails and open highway while putting these boots through the paces. Luckily — for you, not for him — his 2001 Kawasaki died a few times.
While push-starting the bike, Frank learned the very hard way how important boot walkability can be. We also sauntered into coffee shops to see how walkable these boots are.
Buyers Guide: How to Choose the Best Motorcycle Boots
There are a lot of subcategories of motorcycle boots. The right boot for your riding depends on the kind of terrain you tackle for most of your rides.
When you check out the racks, you’ll find boots for touring/cruising, motocross (MX), racing/track, adventure/dual sport, sport touring, and riding footwear, which is generally shorter.
Here we focus on adventure and dual sport, touring, and riding footwear for casual stints.
The best boot designs incorporate adequate safety without getting too clunky. The most protective boot, which you would want for serious off-roading, will be hard to move in like the Sidi Atojo SRS. But that’s the compromise of lifesaving tech.
Parts of Motorcycle Boots
When you try on motorcycle boots at the store, think about the following details:
Buckles or Closure System
You don’t want a buckle to pop open on a ride, so pay attention to that in the store.
Buckles should be easily adjustable and stay shut once the cam spring is closed. That’s one reason we love the TCX Drifter.
We see underdesigned buckles more than we wish. A safe, protective boot needs to stay clasped when you ride, while loading or picking up your bike, and if you crash.
Reinforcement
The toe box should not collapse nor should the zone around the ankle and Achilles.
You want to see reinforcement on top of the toe so that shifting doesn’t wear through the boot over time.
A taller boot should have heat protection on the inner calf and shin armor. A Goldilocks product with 360-degree reinforcement is the Alpinestars Corozal.
ADV boots frequently armor the ankle, which makes hyperextension laterally and forwardly less likely. Protection around the ankle comes at the expense of walkability.
Outsole
To choose the best outsole, consider when you ride and on what kind of terrain. Smooth outsoles like those on the Danner Moto Wedge GTX work fine on the street but aren’t great on dirt. Unpaved sections need lugged soles, which offer more grip and are handier for hiking sections of trail.
Gaiter or Cuff
Waterproof systems are pretty common in motorcycle boots but pointless if rain rolls down your pant leg and into your boot. Ideally, your pants will fit over the top of your boot. But if they don’t, a snug cuff closure is key.
Materials and Weight
Heavier Moto boots are built for a specific application. For instance, the Sidi Atojo SRS is an amazing choice for riding very technical terrain. The build is lighter than SIDI motocross footwear, but they are also three times heavier than the REV’IT! Everest GTX.
CE safety ratings don’t account for weight but we pay attention because the grams influence comfort.
On the materials front, synthetics tend to be lighter than leather. You’ll find synthetic boots that meet the same CE rating as leather boots, too. Leather lasts longer and is more resistant to grease and road grime than synthetics.
The weaker and cheaper points of boots tend to be the clasps, closures, and buckles.
The TCX Drifter hits the center of the target for material and weight. They’re not ultra-lightweight but are a bit less hefty than the Alpinestars Corozal. The high-wear zones are built with leather, and weight-saving synthetic materials are used where you need a greater range of motion.
When you consider materials, think about the type and specific location on the boot. Also, consider where you’ll be riding whether that’s down the street or through the Chilean Andes.
Waterproofing
Motorcycle boots made with a waterproof-breathable membrane dominate this list. To point, the Danner Moto Wedge GTX low-top boot incorporates Gore-Tex. With a shorter boot, the inside of the footwear might still get soaked unless you were wearing a waterproof gaiter. The REV’IT! Everest GTX is taller, which is a better choice if wet weather is a concern.
Another taller boot with a gaiter-like closure is the Alpinestars Corozal or the TCX Drifter.
What’s the downside of truly waterproof boots? They don’t breathe as well, so they can get hot.
Overall, if you’re really concerned about getting wet, be sure that the interface between your motorcycle pants and your motorcycle boots is compatible and well-sealed.
Safety Certifications and Crush Protection
The European Union rates the armoring and slide protection of motorcycle boots. These fall within CE (Conformité Européene) Level 1 and 2 standards. The EU measures the sole, front, and back of the boot, and the lateral components. They also measure abrasion and crush resistance.
For abrasion, the EU uses a tool like a belt sander. A boot that scores a Level 1 needs to withstand 1.5 seconds against the belt without forming a hole on the sole, front, or back. A Level 1 resistance for the sides of a boot needs to resist five seconds against the belt sander. (Because you’re more likely to slide sideways in an accident.)
Meeting the Level 2 certification is more stringent. A boot’s front, back, and sole needs to withstand 2.5 seconds against the belt without developing a hole. The inner and outer soles need to survive 12 seconds of contact with the belt.
The boots are also tested for crush protection, also known as transverse rigidity. This is important because when riders step off the bike their trusty steed occasionally falls on their foot. Two plates are pressed against the boot’s sole to try to smash it. The boot needs to withstand a force that’s equivalent to at least 214 pounds of pressure to meet Level 1 standards, and the boot can deform very minimally. The rate is 337 pounds for the Level 2.
The EU doesn’t test crush protection at the ankle bone or the toe box. Though, both of those are very vulnerable zones that you should consider during the purchase process. You’ll find decent ankle protection in the REV’IT! Everest GTX. There’s more ankle protection in the TCX Drifter, and even better toe and ankle protection in the Alpinestars Corozal. You’ll find protection around your entire lower leg with the Sidi Atojo SRS. The Danner Moto Wedge GTX offers a very rigid sole, so it might pass a Level 1 for crush proofness in the CE test, and there’s some armoring at the ankle bone, too.
FAQ
There’s no single answer to this question.
The outsole shouldn’t be able to twist or be crushed from the side. The outsole should be able to withstand friction. You’ll also want protection from the heat of the motorcycle against your inner leg and from hot pavement. A good boot should be reinforced at the ankle and at the top of the left boot to protect from the wear caused by shifting.
A couple of our favorite motorcycle boots include the TCX Drifter and the Alpinestars Corozal.
Yes. Riding is dangerous and it’s dangerous to your extremities.
Motorcycle boots provide crush protection, especially during one of the most common accidents: having the bike fall on you at a stop or while dismounting.
Moto boots are also built to last, because they’re constructed with durable materials. They’re going to resist damage, and can sometimes be repaired with new parts.
The initial investment pays dividends when you consider the injury prevention and repairable construction, so you’re not replacing them year after year.
There’s zero doubt here: You want a snug motorcycle boot. However, they shouldn’t cut off circulation.
Choose a boot that you can comfortably wear for many hours without pain. But a loose fit will alter the protection. A boot should be able to prevent hyperextension or an ankle roll.
The boot will also need to withstand the extra weight and force from your leg anchored against the ground, which is what stops a bike from rolling backward.