Like every region of India, Mithila also is full of Devi temples. I saw many of them at Darbhanga, however, most of them are new. Ancient Devi temple of Mithila include Uchhaith Bhagwati Temple and Ahilya Sthan, both of which are mentioned in our Indian Scriptures.
We visited both these temples on our way to Janakpur – the ancient capital of Mithila.
Uchhaith Bhagwati Temple
Uchhaith Bhagwati gets her name from the village that is also called Uchhaith. It lies on the path that many Rishi Munis took to go to Himalayas. Yes, it is in the foothills of the Himalayas, very close to Janakpur.
Temple story also says that Sri Ram also visited this temple on his way to Janakpur. Indeed, the Ahilya Sthan story that we will visit in a minute too, corroborates this story.
Kalidasa Story
Story goes that Kalidasa was a fool with no knowledge. He was married to a very learned Vidyottama, by trick. When she found out about Kalidasa, she kicked him out and told him to return only when he has enough knowledge. It is believed that Kalidasa started working at a Sanskrit Pathshala near Uchhaith.
Being a Durga devotee, he used to visit and light a lamp in the temple every day. One stormy night, he crossed the river with great difficulty to light the lamp. Devi was pleased with his devotion. She appeared before him and asked him to seek a boon. Kalidasa, of course, asked for knowledge and was awarded that gift. He went on to become the greatest poet the world has seen.
Chhinmasta
You see a big Machh Dwar announcing the temple, with two giant golden fishes. The path leading to the temple is full of shops selling Puja items and prasad. Inside the compound there are vendors selling flowers, coconuts, chunris, surrounding the temple in red.
This is an ancient temple dedicated to Bhagwati in the form of Chhinmasta – the one with a severed head. She is one of the Dash Mahavidyas. In the Garbhagriha, you see an image of Devi in black stone. It is not easy to see it as it is covered with piles of red hibiscus flowers. Pandit ji was kind enough to lift the flowers to let us have the darshan.
Many women were worshipping the Devi. It is a live temple pulsating with divine energy. When we visited, a katha was going on, as a prelude to the upcoming Navaratri. There is a Shiva temple in the premises.
The temple is tiny when you compare it to its importance and popularity. The tiles were coming apart, there was filth all around. How I wish, the temple was cleaner. The chaos and uncleanliness take away the sanctity of the place.
I am told that lot of Tantra Sadhana is done at this temple and the adjoining cremation ground. It is believed that one gets whatever one wishes for at this temple.
Navaratri attracts lots of crowds at this temple. Ninth day of Navaratri that represents Siddhidatri or the form of goddess that bestows you will all possible wishes is specially worshipped here.
Ahilya Sthan
Ahilya is the wife of Gautam Rishi. They lived here in the forest in the foothills of the Himalayas. Once Indra tricked Ahilya and that made Gautam Rishi angry. He cursed her to become a stone.
As soon as he did so, he realised that it was not her fault, instead Indra was at fault. A curse can not be taken back, so he limited it by saying that when a Vishnu Avatar comes and touches her by his feet, she will revert to her human form.
Sri Ram, as the seventh avatar of Vishnu, walked on this path, following his Guru Vishwamitra. On his way, he touched Ahilya and obliged her. This place came to be known as Ahilya Sthan.
Ram Temple at Ahilya Sthan
There is a lovely temple in pale pink and yellow dedicated to Ram-Janaki. We reached this temple at Ahiari village early morning, only to find it closed. On our request, Pandit ji agreed to open the temple. But, he needed some time to take bath before he could open the temple. In the meantime, we walked around and found an Ahilya Temple close by
The temple dates to late 17th CE and has been restored by the Darbhanga kings.
Inside it has beautiful Murtis of Sri Ram-Janaki along with Gautam-Ahilya, Hanuman ji and Vishwamitra.
You can go around the temple and admire its simple yet elegant architecture.
Ahilya Temple
Ahilya temple is a small temple located next to a square stepwell. There are two Pindis on the ground that are covered with brass faces and dressed with garments.
A platform behind holds the Murtis depicting Ram Darbar and Hanuman ji in the lap of his mother.
I was intrigued about Hanuman Murti and the lady priest there said, this is the maternal grandparent’s home of Hanuman ji. I asked how and she explained that Anjani, the mother Hanuman ji is daughter of Ahilya and Gautam Rishi. This was something new to me. Here onwards, I started noticing the Hanuman ji, along with his mother Anjani in many temples around.
Skin Cure Ritual
We noticed an interested ritual here. A young woman was doing the parikrama of the temple holding two long brinjals on a stick. After she was done with her Puja, I asked her about the Brinjals. She said she had a skin disease that could not be cured with all possible treatments. That is when someone suggested her to pray to Ahilya with a promise that if you are cured you would visit Ahilya Sthan and offer brinjals to the Devi. She had come all the way from Mumbai where she lives, after being cured. Faith, as they say, can move mountains.
In front of the temple stands a thick pillar in yellow with mantras written on it. In a niche facing the temple are the ancient Murtis of Sri Ram and Lakshman. It is believed that parikrama of this pillar is equal to parikrama of the world. We saw a few people doing its parikrama.
An adjoining Yagnashala with a thatched roof indicate regular yagnas here.
A platform with the footprints of Sri Ram marks his journey through this forest. In fact, for devotees, this is the most sacred part of these temples.
I found these two temples at Ahilya Sthan very peaceful. They exude that stillness that one needs to go inward.
After this we visited Gautam Kund at Brahmpur village. It looked more like a modern-day pond. We prayed from a distance and carried on our journey towards Janakpur.
As per pauranik stories, Brahma himself created this pond for Gautam Rishi in his hermitage.
Travel Tips
For visiting both these places closest airport is Darbhanga and railway station is Madhubani.
Uchhaith Is located 4 kms from Benipatti.
Unless you want to do a Puja, 30 minutes is good enough to visit the temple on a normal day.
Ahilya Sthan is about 24 km from Darbhanga. Follow the sign boards from the main road to reach this temple.
Gautam Kund is far away and does not seem like an old kund. So, unless you must visit, it is avoidable.
There are no facilities at Ahilya sthan, so carry your own food and water.
At Uchhaith, there are eateries but it may still be prudent to carry your own.
