What it is like to remain in a treehouse in Mexico: My evaluation of Nomade Holbox

What is Nomade Holbox?

How to book Nomade Holbox

You’ll need to pay up for the privilege of enjoying this luxury nature experience. I stayed in the shoulder season during April, and rooms ranged from $300 per night for a Moon Temple Room to $600 per night for an oceanfront suite. Treehouse prices fell in the middle at around $400 per night.

These prices may not seem steep compared to many stateside beach resorts, but they were noticeably higher than other properties on the low-key island.

The location

Getting to Holbox Island is a bit of an adventure in and of itself. First, you’ll need to fly into Cancun International Airport (CUN). From there, it’s a 2.5-hour bumpy shuttle ride to the ferry station in Chiquila. Shared tours start at $42 per person, and I recommend booking this ahead of time. The $12 ferry ride to the island takes about 20 minutes. Once on the island, you’ll need to hail an all-terrain golf cart taxi for around $12 to reach the hotel.

Don’t be alarmed when the taxi drops you off in what seems like a random spot in the middle of the jungle. Nomade Holbox is so set back from the main road that you’ll have to do the last tiny bit of the journey on foot. Just as you start to wonder if you’ve been abandoned in the wilderness, you’ll see the welcome desk emerge among the trees.

The concierge, Eric, and I had already been messaging to coordinate my transportation to the hotel, and he and the two other staff members welcomed me warmly when I arrived. They offered me a delicious detox green beverage to sip while they took my information and went through the essentials of my stay. Then, they invited me to leave my bag with them to deliver to my room while Eric gave me a tour of the grounds and showed me to my treehouse.

The rooms are rustic luxury

When I first booked my treehouse, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect.

The website informed me that the rooms have air conditioning and Wi-Fi, so I knew there must be at least some electricity. Still, I was unsure how rustic this stay would be, so I called before I booked to ensure there would be a bathroom in my treehouse.

With my skeptical expectations, the room truly took my breath away. The treehouses weren’t physically built into trees but on sturdy stilts to extend them up to the treetops. The lush vegetation surrounding them gave a genuine natural feel to what could have otherwise felt cold and industrial.

The views were even more stunning than I had hoped. I had a clear view of the ocean framed by palm trees that could have been mistaken for a painting if I couldn’t smell the sea air and hear the trees rustling in the wind.

I was also relieved to see that there was, in fact, a full bathroom — along with both an indoor and an outdoor shower.

Not only did the room have electric lights, but it also had a minibar, a Nespresso machine, a queen-size bed, a surprisingly powerful air-conditioning unit and multiple electric outlets.

But the most unexpected feature was that my treehouse had a rooftop area. I could climb the stairs on the side of my room to take in a 360-degree view of the island.

I was nervous about how precisely I was supposed to climb the vertical 23 feet to get to this treehouse. Just in case, I opted for a backpack instead of a suitcase. I was pleasantly surprised to learn that the only climbing involved was via a staircase, but it was still a narrow spiral one that made me grateful not to be dragging a suitcase (or subjecting the concierge to bear the weight of my usual overpacking).

As happy as I was to have a more luxurious space than I was prepared for, the room wasn’t without faults. It was bigger than I expected but still quite small — and would have been cramped for more than one person.

The most challenging space was the bathroom. While I was grateful to have a full indoor bathroom, the size was only slightly bigger than an airplane bathroom. Not to mention, a few of the features weren’t conducive to the small space.

For instance, the lone pendant light in the space hung low over the limited counter space, and I lost count of how many times I hit my head on it (an uncommon experience for my 5-foot stature). And when I wanted to shower indoors, I was forced to stand directly under the spray without waiting for it to warm up because the shower door blocked the faucet when opened.

Additionally, the bathroom windows were mesh rather than glass. This allowed the breeze in for some ventilation, but it also allowed every outside sound in.

Thanks to the elevation, the noise was kept to a minimum, but I woke up multiple times in the night from the sound of my neighbor returning to her treehouse and some loud birds in the trees around me.

Personally, I found the morning ocean views and calming sounds of the trees around me to be well worth the other noise and somewhat limited space, but that certainly won’t be the case for everyone.

Sustainability

Holbox Island is a part of Mexico’s largest nature reserve called Yum Balam (Lord Jaguar). Efforts to protect this nature reserve are evident throughout the island and especially at Nomade Holbox.

The entire property is filled with lush vegetation. The manager explained that the goal was to bring life into the property rather than clear it out to pour concrete when designing the hotel. All room types feature materials that are least impactful to the environment around them. So, instead of concrete, you’ll find mostly wood structures and canvas walls.

The property’s electricity comes from solar panels, and there are signs in the rooms that encourage guests to turn off lights and air conditioning when they leave. Additionally, guests receive glass bottles of water in the rooms that they can have refilled at the bar as needed.

Ocean-friendly sunscreen and bug spray are also available throughout the property for guests, though if the mosquitoes love you as much as they did me, you’ll want to bring some more powerful repellent.

The dining options

With the sparkling ocean views, the restaurant and bar could coast on mediocre food and still pull off a delightful dining experience. But, luckily for foodies, the dining options more than live up to the stellar scenery.

The experiences

Arguably, the best part of the property is the copious lounge spaces in the Beach Club. Just beyond the restaurant, you’ll find a stretch of loungers — both shaded and unshaded — spread out on the beach. Once you claim a spot, a server arrives to take your drink and snack order. When I got my ideal (shaded) spot and saw those around me ordering bottles of rosé, I wished I had set aside an entire day to relax just like them.

Non-guests can also use the facilities but must order a minimum of $100 per person in food and beverages. To meet this minimum, they can choose from a range of more casual bites, such as guacamole ($14) and tacos ($18), offered through the restaurant during the day, as well as a full bar menu.

We didn’t run into any issues with crowding, but my concierge assured me during my property tour that hotel guests are given priority over the beach club loungers as much as possible.

Additionally, the property has bicycles and stand-up paddleboards available for guests to use at no additional charge.

If your water preference is more lounging in the pool than paddling in the ocean, there are also two pools for you to choose from.

Complimentary classes for guests

Another highlight of Nomade Holbox is its wide range of complimentary classes and experiences for guests. Upon my arrival, I was enthusiastically told that I was “just in time for the herbal bath,” which prompted a moment of panic as I tried to figure out simultaneously what that meant and how to politely decline.

The concierge then shared with me the full list of available classes and experiences for the week. The list included different types of yoga each morning, “Agua Magica” held in the pool, a “Sensory Sound Journey” and a “Cacao Sharing Circle.”

I did take advantage of a free yoga class the next morning for a dose of Zen to start my day. It took place in the air-conditioned “Gratitude Tent,” where we were protected from distracting visuals but still heard the calming sounds of palm trees rustling and birds chirping around us.

Non-hotel guests can join one of these classes for a $20 fee. So, if you’re traveling with a friend who isn’t staying on the property, they can still take a class with you. You’ll just need to reserve their spot with the front desk.

These classes match the relaxing vibe of the property and are likely a major draw for many guests. However, there’s no pressure to have a full boho yogi experience if that isn’t what you want. You can stay on the property and simply enjoy the views, food and sounds of nature even without leaning all the way in.

Reasons Nomade Holbox might not be for you

Even though Nomade Holbox leans more toward a resort experience than a glamping experience, it’s much more rustic than a traditional hotel. If you want a traditional luxury hotel with a TV in your room, this isn’t going to be the place for you.

It’s also not a great fit if you need to get some work done. There was no workspace in my room; the only seating areas were the bed and the lounge pad on the roof, which were not conducive to creating a remote office space.

I was able to work from a table in the dining area, but the resort is truly designed for guests to relax and unplug.

The hotel staff really leans into the concept of a wellness experience here. Both when I arrived and when I departed, for example, the concierge hugged me and encouraged me to take care of my heart. This was fine with me, but it might feel uncomfortable for some.

Finally, this isn’t the place for you if you’re traveling with a young family. This is an adults-only property, and children under 18 are not permitted to stay in any of the rooms.

Accessibility

For all its good qualities, Nomade Holbox is majorly lacking in the accessibility department. As part of its effort to blend in with the natural world, the property is a bit challenging to traverse, especially for those with mobility challenges. There are no paved areas — just wooden steps along the path throughout the grounds.

My treehouse had a narrow spiral staircase with no options for those with disabilities. Even the less dramatic rooms, however, also have a mixture of sand and wooden steps you’ll need to traverse to get into them.

If you take a look at the hotel’s website, Nomade Holbox advises that, due to the architecture and nature of this property, it “do[es] not recommend our hotel for people with wheelchairs or mobility impairments.” There is no mention of in-room features for those with visual or auditory impairments.

Alternatives to Nomade Holbox

The island has a myriad of hotels, resorts and vacation rentals to choose from, with most either on the beach or just a block or two away.

Checking out

Nomade Holbox is a unique place to stay and enjoy the natural beauty of Holbox Island. Of course, staying in a treehouse or a room with canvas walls is far from everyone’s dream vacation. But if you’re like me and willing to sacrifice just a tiny bit of comfort for an amazing and authentic island experience, I highly recommend sleeping next to the birds at Nomade Holbox if you get the chance.

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